Tag: Travel

Going Bush

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Kings Canyon Resort. We arrived at the building designated reception. Drove to our rooms… we’re directed to take a torch when we walked across to the fuel station/shop, which was next to the bar/dining, 15 minutes walk away. In case of scorpions and snakes, they said. Avoid the snakes. In particular, the Inland Taipan aka ‘Fear snake’ as there’s no known antidote for its venom. Diner is at 7pm. Casual as that. BTW if you wanna do the rim walk tomorrow, we leave at 5am. Now I had intended to do that but another 5am wake up was not happening.

Showered and betorched, we headed over for … Emu burger and whatever dessert came out of the freezer because this is the outback, and supply is an irregular thing. Turned out to be cheesecake, which was good as we’re the burgers. We were having an after dinner drink when shrieking alerted us to people standing on chairs across the room. SNAKE! Calmly evicted by staff as coffee was served. Never did find out what kind of snake but it was a rainbow something or other I think. Generally I don’t mind snakes. Enough excitement for one long day and torch on head off to bed. The coach was parked directly outside our unit… the engine did not stir me as they left at 5 for the walk.

Around 9.45,after a leisurely breakfast we met back at the bus for a short drive to the base of the canyon and the less strenuous wander down the base track. The gates to the rim walk had closed due to the temperature, now at 39°C. It’s not even 10 am. I looked at the “steps” to the top and thanked the sleep gods for not letting me wake up in time.

There was an option to take the afternoon off, swim in the resort pool, have a beer… or take a helicopter ride over the top. I’d missed the walk so… helo it is then!

These are the steps to the canyon rim

Now, I’ve never been in a helicopter before, not even as a patient! (UK reference as most ordinary people will only get a ‘copter ride en route to hospital in an air ambulance). As we set off to the helipad, we hear there’s a bush fire heading towards the resort as a result of the previous evening’s thunder storms, and we may need to evacuate… but not to worry. Let’s go on a joy ride. Our pilot was an ambitious young woman with one eye on the fire and rescue service so naturally the opportunity to photograph a bush fire and file a report meant our flights were slightly delayed. I was seated in the front next to her and off we went. I would have preferred her not to continue taking photos with her phone whilst flying a zero winged aircraft which requires, I noticed, both hands and both feet to remain stable. Let me tell you the views were worth every penny.

Kings Canyon from the helicopter, you can just make out smoke from the bush fires in the distance.

Back to earth and another quick shower and change (still 40 degrees) off to the evening meal which was allegedly a buffalo curry, suffice to say we were offered a free drink as compensation. Still a wide selection of random frozen puddings and this time without added snake. We drifted off to bed enjoying the sunset as we walked back. Long day and another early start tomorrow as we headed for Yalara, a purpose built resort serving the Uluru/Kata Tjuta park.

Meanwhile back in the desert…

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So many people do not realise that a desert can be cold as well as hot. At home right now it’s minus three degrees centigrade. It’s been like this, though not quite as cold, for about three days now. I’m about to tell you what life was like in the Red Centre of Australia in 39 – 40 degrees.

The frost this morning

Alice Springs overnight before heading off on the Larapinta highway and tne Merenee Loop to Kings Canyon. I’m just gonna bung a load of photos in here. Suffice to say it’s no ordinary ‘minibus’ that carries us and Outback Spirit need to give Smiley Oz and wife Karen a bonus for the value added commentary and obvious joy they have in the NT. (Northern Territory) even if Karen is a Scouser (a person from Liverpool).

At Alice Springs Station

All I can do is recommend a visit to Alice. It is like nowhere you’ve ever been. A quick tour of Flynn’s memorial (the guy that invented the Flying Doctor Service), ANZAC Hill, (more of which later) and a whizz round downtown Alice and we were deposited at the hotel for the night. We were warned not to venture out after dark because of some recent incidents but, honestly it does not feel like a scary place. Next door was Lasseter’s Casino (made famous in Pricilla Queen of the Desert if not before).

Out early (every morning was early) onto the bus (with Smiler, our driver, supplying a commentary and soundtrack ( a link to Spotify) and Larapinta Drive out of Alice. This was to be a day of wonders. First stop Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), where we picked up the stories of Albert Namatjira and his art. Onto Namatjira Drive, named for the man himself. We passed the ochre pits and learned about sunscreen and bush craft. On to Ormiston Gorge (Quarta Tooma) and the waterhole made famous by one of the ‘White Gum’ paintings that made Namatjira’s name.

I’m being careful to include First People names where I can as these lands are contested and the names are gradually being returned to them. I’ll not include images of every tourist spot please look them up if you’re interested. Out final stop on the ‘black top’ highway was a little known spot that is the scene of a meteor landing and where the crater is still visible. There is something about standing in the eroded base of a meteor crater that makes you feel really small, especially knowing that 1000s of feet have already been eroded from the hills surrounding you which form its walls.

Then we went … I was going to say off road but in reality onto a thing they call the Mereene Loop. This is a corrugated dirt road and we were at the start of the wet season. We are sitting in s 25 seater minibus. Bouncing along. Swerving to avoid puddles for the next 3 hours or more. Sounds exciting eh? Our ‘minibus’ was in fact a converted lorry. Seriously build for these conditions, 4×4, high road clearance, leather seats mini video screens, coolers for food and water. We pulled up at one point to hand over water to a guy whose car had overheated (its what country people do) and to check he had help on its way. You never leave a fellow traveller on these roads. Along the Loop we saw Brumbies, Desert Oak, Gums of various varieties, Grass trees, and still no Roos.

Destination Kings Canyon. (see earlier Pricilla reference) and the Kings Canyon Resort. Now ‘resort’ means a different sort of thing in Australia than what you might be expecting….

Going on the Ghan

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You’ve no doubt heard of the Orient Express, maybe even the Trans Canadian or the Rocky Mountaineer, but this … is the GHAN! Our voyage, for this is in effect a land cruise, began at the freight terminal in Darwin. Not so glamourous? Well yes, actually. While there’s no waiting room as such and definitely no café the staff make up for it all with cold bottles of water and a sunny disposition to a fault. Platinum baby! Walk straight through, let us run you to your carriage by golf buggy. Now it that seems extreme let me tell you that this train is almost a kilometre long and its cracking 37 degrees centigrade.

We hop on and are shown to the carriage where the champagne flutes are soon filled by staff (yes, and re filled if you want, this is all inclusive). There are water bottles and a brochure of off train excursions to choose read for our first stop but no before lunch. The train menu reflects produce from across Australia from barramundi to kangaroo (Yes, we ate the national symbol … emu too). The wine list is filled with the best the continent can offer … and a little Bolly Dahling!

We leave bang on time with lunch served in the Platinum dining room as we head towards the station at Katherine. I’ll tell you more about different trips as we go along. As to this one We chose the gorge cruise at Nitmiluk (previously known as the Katherine George). The gorges (there are 20 or so flood to different levels depending on the time of year and we arrived at the driest point. Nitmiluk cruises are run by the local first people, the Jawoyn. White (European) Australians have begun a reparation for a lot of bad stuff. Everywhere we went the tour operators thanked local elders past present and future for use of the land. A first it seems like a gimmick but this is serious work and willingly undertaken. Our captain and tour guide was Jawoyn and wove local stories into a commentary about crocodiles and film crews, rock art and floods. How privileged to be given this insight, what an amazing place and how much remains off limits to us (as it should be). between 40 and 65,000 years of history here.

Back to the train for a cocktail before diner (or a coffee). Dining is relaxed and you can choose to share with fellow passengers, there are a lot of couples, or dine a deux. We avoided those who treated the staff like servants, we have family in the service industry and we’re not rude people. As I said in my piece on how to be a good guest being nice costs nothing. From the ‘amuse bouche’ to the sweet we tried everything and I mean everything one of each dish for each course. Hey, we were on holiday! The cabin was turned down when we arrived back after eating , chocolate on the pillow, nightcap (preordered) waiting on the side table. As the sun set over the increasingly red earth we headed off to Alice Springs through the darkness.

Discovering Darwin

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To be honest we had only a couple of days here and day one was major travel tiredz and a thunderstorm but we made it to the famous Mindl Beach Sunday market. Now we are spoiled and come from a great little market town so it has to be pretty spectacular to impress and, whilst it’s lovely, Mindl was a tad disappointing.

OK the storm light was spectacular but most of the market seemed to be food stalls we couldn’t eat from because of our respective allergies. We ended up with sushi rolls which were lobster and cheaper that tuna is at home! There were a few clothing stalls and some interesting alternative medicine things not to mention a significant number of the Larakita people trying to make their grog money by posing for photographs and begging. I spoke to some of the women (they approached me) who told me they are not happy when they are in the city drinking but its different when they are ‘out bush’ hunting. We owe these people more than an apology for what we (Europeans) have done here. Australia is not eight states, one federation but over 200 tribal territories that have existed over 65,000 years as far as we can tell. I personally learned a lot about these cultures whilst touring this great continent…. trust me you are gonna wish you knew what they know.

Darwin was the last place in Australia to be invaded. The Japanese Imperial Airforce rained bombs on the city in February 1942. If you want to hear the full story take yourself off on a harbour cruise at sunset. It’s glorious.

The ‘Gaze and Graze’ platter for two was more than enough food for us and we waddled off the boat after an entertaining couple of hours. Our host and commentator was from Croydon!

One thing I would say of the city or, more accurately, the CBD feels a little off somehow, dangerous? Can’t put my finger on it but I’d no sense of wanting to hang around there. The suburbs, in particular Parap, I enjoyed. Parap has a thriving artistic community (although we did meet Larakia people up and drinking, they were happy) with some pleasant coffee shops and interesting places to eat. It’s tropical. Being outside even for a short while was sweaty and made me long for air con! We had a small yard in the unit we stayed in and no way could I sit outside for more than 10 minutes without needing a drink and a shower. Water is so very important. It becomes an obsession.

But that’s enough for now… next stop our chauffeur driven ride to the Ghan.

We went to the Other Side…

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of the world. Yep! Australia. As far from here as we could get (Joking that we could have a new PM by the time we got home…we did) for three glorious weeks. 9 beds in 21 days and a little sleep on the plane(s) too. People if you have the chance to do this trip please take it. We took the Ghan!

If you’re not aware of the Ghan let me tell you this is no ordinary train.

Image of the Ghan train stopped at Manganuri Statio

Named for the Afghan cameleers who helped to keep trade and communication going across Australia. It runs 2979km from Darwin to Adelaide and vice versa. You can take a straight trip or an expedition or even get off in the middle for a few days, which is what we did, with 6 glorious days in the Red Centre. No, its not cheap but it is all inclusive and lots of people choose to celebrate a ‘big’ birthday on board or have some other reason to celebrate.

We went Platinum because who wants to climb into a bunk bed on a train? There is a Gold class too (bunk beds) and single cabins for those without claustrophobic tendencies. For those with mobility issues Journey Beyond do offer specialist cabins though these are limited. (They are not paying me for this post as, frankly, they don’t need my help) They’re booking 2024 at time of writing and don’t bet on getting a Platinum cabin as they sell out fast! We did the ‘Red Centre Spectacular’ and our guides Smiler and Karen with Outback Spirit were brilliant but more of them later.

Long flight….loooooong flight. Word of advice pay for the best seat you can afford on the plane. We went Qantas business class (it was a celebration). Fully reclining beds for the win. Turning left onto the plane for the first time. Being greeted with champagne. Menu with actual choices! Snacks on demand. A snuggly duvet. As many drinks as you like all for no extra cost….eat your heart out EasyJet. Big thank you to all the staff (especially those on the Adelaide to Perth leg who dealt with a medical emergency very calmly whilst we were on board) who were patient and kind throughout.

First stop Darwin. (OK, there was an exhausted overnight in Sydney but we saw nothing of the city).

Barely time to exhale

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I’m not much for long goodbyes but I’ve spoken to my patents twice in two days and apparently I’m now booked for 3 talks to 2 groups of older adults once we return and we haven’t quite gone yet. I don’t know what you do before going on holiday we clean. Apparently. There may be a future in ‘talks to community groups’. I’ve got one to do for the scuba club too.

The house is mid renovation. Needed the new plaster fixing. Spare bed made up for the cat wrangler/house sitter. Sourdough baked (you have to leave treats), floors swept, hoovering done (for US readers I mean vacuuming). Supplies purchased…firewood, Dr Pepper (I know, I don’t get it either), cat food. Frankly I’ve had less busy work weeks. What fresh food was left is going into tonight’s meal. Tomorrow is for online check in and train to the airport. Fuuuuck. This is actually happening. I suspect I’ll believe it once I get on the plane.

Where we are going there is unlikely to be any WiFi, or phone signal. Updates when I can.

Two little pricks

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So last week was the ‘flu jab and today Covid 4, the much anticipated but unwanted sequel. I arrived home to the announcement that a friend we dined with on Friday has tested positive. Ah well, the test won’t work on me today anyway. It’s officially lockdown for us as of today whatever. The big adventure is but days away. Single figures. Supplies are laid in and the house sitter is confirmed.

Burning desires?

There are logs enough to keep the home fires burning until we slope off. TBH I’m more than a tad nervous. It’s been a while since I’ve left the country to be sure. The pandemic has its continuing effect. Collecting the holiday cash this very afternoon made it all a bit more real but I suspect that until I set foot on that plane. It may be a while before the next update. I’ll be out of signal range. Allons y.

Ergo In Arcade Games Est

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Yep. Three floors of video games set to free play…say what! I mean if you’re going to a party but you’re not a party person and then this happens. Hidden in an old industrial area now full of up and coming artists and shops and clubs in a part of Liverpool known as ‘The Baltic Triangle’ is a pub. Hidden within that pub is a video game need fest. ArCains. (No, they’re not paying me to write this)

Moments after the first lager had hit my lips I found myself battling at Pac Man, then shuffleboard which, being a physical game required a different kind of skill. Onwards to the haptic interface that is a ride upon plastic motorbike for a race or two through snow and pixelated jungles. In a moment of quiet I found the old school original Space Invaders and remembered very quickly how bad at it I’ve always been! Pong was next. This time a physical representation of the OG of all video games. Too easy. It was about now that I realised a)I had not eaten and that lager was going to my head and b)there were two more floors of games. I had originally thought the £18 entrance a bit steep for one room but nooooo there was so much more. All the games were set to free play and as such you’d well ‘ad your money’s worth (as they say in Liverpool) by the time you left. TBH we are planning another visit once the schools have gone back. Less kids embarrassingly beating me at Mario Kart although the fact that it was more like actual driving than on the console at home meant I was able to win a few rounds which never normally happens. The top floor had a wall of PC games hoked up. Clearly this was for the serious players who seemed somewhat less boisterous than the rest of the place. My advice, take earplugs or, better, just join in with the screams and squeals be a kid again (or at least a moody teenager)

Onward to the Baltic Market inside another of the old brewery buildings. Grab a table scan the number with the app and place your order. All four at our table ate from a different street food stall. All meals delivered to the table as they were prepared. Naturally everyone was eating everyone else’s food. There’s a drink selection too. Saturday night it was rammed and loud and we were, at least, outside avoiding the worst of the pumping sound system.

Falafel. Humous. Fries.

The ‘party’ was dispersed across several tables including those who represented the vanguard at our next venue, Sugar and Dice (nope, not sponsored) hidden behind Liverpool’s Nordic Church and a haven of sweet treats and coffee (although they have upped their bar game since last I was there). cake, yes please, tea for me I’m diving tomorrow, and a round of Cockroach Poker, Fluxx and something suitable for the kids on the next table that I never did learn the name of. Board games havens such as this often form a focus of any visit to a new town. Usually the coffee and cake is excellent and the clientele are happy to chat and give you great hints about local (possibly hidden) places of interest. The premise is simple buy your refreshments pay a small deposit or rent a chunk of time at a table and you may try out any of the 100s of board games they have in stock. Many such places will sell games too. I can get very boring about board games but board games are never boring. If you find yourself in a given location see if they have a board game café. I bet you’ll make a new friend and learn a new game.

I wonder if we’ll find a games café on our big trip…(I just checked. the answer is a definite yes) I know there’s a pack of cards on the carry on…do we have room for another one… just a small one…