Well, more, in the process of decorating. Over the pandemic we began ‘project renovate’. one of the things people were still allowed to do here in the UK was have building work done. So the kitchen was refitted and a new garden scheme with raised beds to grow food became a reality. The log burner went in … then things kinda stalled. Between the holiday season and a sort of hibernation mode very little was happened over the last weeks but with the arrival of more spring like days and the utility bill came the realisation that something needed to happen to stop us heating the whole house and inhabiting easier to warm spaces. The kitchen table serves as an office and the living room as my den, which is nice because its south facing and catches even the slightest sunlight and warmth. I do have to say that once the curtains were removed it got a lot cooler in here.
We’ve gone mad and decided that this is not a cash cow but a home. Ignoring the current TV fads for flip and resale beige nightmares we decided we are living here so mad colours it is then. the living room will be purple. First coat applied and second on it’s way. This development has been somewhat slowed by my having sprained something in my wrist making holding a paintbrush a short term proposition at best. I’m good at the fiddly edging bits though so it can be done in short bursts. Certain parts of the room need to be finished first so the build in seating can be fitted. We’ve booked the carpenter so a line has been drawn.
I’ve read a lot of motivation porn in my time, and I’ve concluded that, whilst fascinating, it’s mostly about young white guys making money. Not all young or white but 99% about money. OK, the retired person says, “Nah”. Yes, it’s lovely to have more than enough. However, my observation is that no one ever quite knows what “enough” is. I have a better question. What makes you happy?
I’m going to tell you about my morning routine since that’s a common productivity theme. I’m usually wakened by my cat. He lives a morning cuddles, and he’s released around 8 am by my other half, who then brings me tea in bed…. well in a mug. I might have 2 or 3 mugs full, which can make for a lot of washing up, but folks, that’s what a dishwasher is for… that and saving argument about who’s turn it is as the dishes pile up. Generally, whilst I’m taking on my morning caffeine, I’m streaming YouTube videos to the bedroom telly.
My video choices tend to be US politics. I’m fascinated by that car crash as with the current UK situation. There’s usually a music video or three. I watch stuff on how to do various creative things like drawing or music (like how to use my OP1, which I’m not good at), an occasional healthy recipe sneaks in there. So that’s about an hour or sometimes two. I keep out of the way whilst my wife sets up the office and heads to work that way, I’m not upsetting that routine. Working from home became a yhi g during the pandemic and has stayed. We really enjoy this as we can get lunch or do jobs around the house more easily.
I’m up and showered by 10 or before. Blanket on the bed for cat sleeping and allergy avoidance. I make breakfast. I like porridge. Chia seed and pistachio with some cardamom. Nice, my brother calls it pretentious. He’s an undertaker. (That’s a funeral director for my American chums)
Now, there’s nowt, as we say here, about motivation in any of that. I will say that at the weekend, when I get up at 8 am to go scuba diving, I’m not a happy bunny. I do love to dive, though, and it makes me very happy. Yes, even in the 4 degrees centigrade waters of a UK quarry.
So there you have it. A complete absence of exercise, supercool, meditation, or reading. There’s nothing about “monetizing” or productivity. Imagine a person just doing what feels good! Magic.
That is what Kupa Piti means. Coober Pedy, white man in a hole. Of course Coober Pedy has no station so we drew in at Manguri a siding about 40 km out of town. We rolled in and were met by Ghan branded coaches and staff ready to take us on the tour of the town. There were options for half day tours taking in just the Breakaways or just the mine but naturally most people want the full trip. We were sent to our numbered vehicle and the whole beautifully choreographed operation swung into action. Each coach took the tour in a different direction so as not to swamp the destinations.
Manguri Station
Today was a very different experience. Beautiful scenery and great photo ops but also restricted by the care the Australians are taking of their country. (Now in Pricilla Queen of the Desert the bus breaks down and our heroes find themselves in need of rescue…. that’s the Breakaways). Our driver for the day 26 years old with a bucket full of dad jokes. It felt odd to be on a 50 seater especially on dirt roads. Breathtaking is the only way to describe the view from our hill (several were being used). Champagne, well, of course. Stories of the various landmarks and their names. Honestly, I could have stayed there all day. WOW!
Breakaways
This is a fragile area. Many different colours of soil and rock. I swear you can see the curve of the earth from up here and I don’t think I’ve ever been able to see so far. We were carefully kept in the designated viewing areas so as not to erode any more of this place. The road is now about 18 inches below the desert surface and there’s not stopping outside the carefully placed stops. We literally had a couple of metres square to stand in at some places. Its sad to know that the very thing which people come to see is being destroyed by them being here in modern machines. (Bit like the Barrier reef when we saw that a few years back). We stopped to see the two dogs (aka salt and pepper) but were asked not to publish photos out of respect for the true owners. On then to the Moon Plain, which looks like … the surface of the moon and is much coveted by NASA and film crews alike for its lunar similarities. Whilst Australia works closely with the USA on space monitoring it is not about to give up this area for destruction. on the edge of all this we stopped to see the Dingo Proof Fence. 1.8m high and with 1.8m below ground in places it is almost constantly under repair it runs for 5614km although it does not entirely stop dingoes nor did it stop rabbits when it was known as the rabbit proof fence.
Coober Pedy sits on the border between Kokotha and Arabana land. The town is small and mining may only take place within a 20 x 50 km area though not, anymore, within the town limits as the dust is bad for your health. Coober Pedy means opals. I have loved opals for as long as I can remember and this grubby, messy mining town was, for me, the thing I had wanted most to see. We were due down a mine … for lunch!
After lunch we did get to look around the museum (for this was an underground museum and historic mine as well as out restaurant). There were examples of historic and modern dugout living. Most people here live underground where it is a comfortable 25C year round. As I say mining id not allowed in town but any opal found whilst extending your home is saleable. Some single fellas have 16 bedroom homes with a bunch of en suite bathrooms! LOL. Opal glows in black light and I’d come prepared with a UV feature on my torch.
Our final visit of the visit of the day was to church. The Serbian Orthodox church. Coober Pedy had more churches per capita than anywhere in Australia reflecting the huge range of nationalities drawn to the mines. This one is spectacular with its nave sitting 15m below the ground. Noodling around outside I found, not opal, but a small meteor chunk of iron. No one in Coober Pedy looks away from the ground for long.
We were first back to the train and were driven to the wrong side of the tracks to get the classic Ghan photo before a little more champagne by with our Red Centre chums as the light faded and the bonfires were lit. This was to be our last night aboard and we arranged to head for the tail (Snowpiercer reference) for drinks after dinner.
Ghan at manguri
Our view as we sat for our meal was sunset over the red desert of South Australia. Drinks later were fun and a little bittersweet. We would be moving ever closer to Adelaide overnight and to the end of this outback adventure.
For anyone who thinks this journey is expensive we worked it out. 10 nights accommodation plus all the food and drink you could want (we paid for two meals in Alice) plus your guides and transport and all the entry fees and coaches to venues etc. it came to around £250 per night, Platinum. (2021 prices) Frankly you would struggle to get just the luxury hotel in London for that. I cannot recommend this highly enough.
Everyone was up and ready for our transfer to the station. I have to admit it felt odd not to have Smiler and Karen looking after us and we were a little twitchy as to what form our transfer would take. Turns out it was a very nice local minibus taxi and they delivered us in time to see the Ghan pull into the station. Once there our bags were checked ready for delivery to our cabins for later. Choices for today’s Ghan related trips were a tour of Alice (been there done that), an animal encounter at the Desert Park (my wife’s choice) and Simpson’s Gap. I went for the Gap. Oh sure we may have gone to ANZAC hill again but this time there was the bonus view, the train. Only seeing it from up there can give any realistic idea of what a 1km train looks like.
The thin red and silver line across the centre of the image is the Ghan. Alice spreads only as far as you can see and is no allowed beyond the current city limits as this is now Arrente land. Once we passed Flynn’s memorial again we were off to Simpson’s gap.
Once again this place has been immortalised by Albert Namatjura. It was busier than many sites we’d visited but still fresh from the coach we were greeted by a Bearded Dragon (lizard) and some pink birds I’m informed were Major Mitchell’s cockatoos posing in a tree for their close up. As ever this being Australia the rivers run underground except in times of flood and we were able to crunch along the sandy river bed where the Blood Gums grew until we reached the water hole that marks the end of the tourist area and the start of First People’s land. You get some idea of the scale of the place from the little figures in this image. A rocky area near the gap itself kept us captivated for some time as we scoured the area for sight of the Black Rock Wallaby. They did not disappoint but you try photographing one!
Lunch was served at the Desert Park where we met up with our train mates. I’m not sure who had the better day. Getting close up and personal with the local wildlife and watching the staff fly birds of prey sounded pretty cool to me. For those who felt the need to shop there was a drop off in the town centre but we opted for a cool down and a shower on board before our evening’s entertainment. Alice Springs was not done with us yet.
The town was called Stuart (after the explorer) or originally Mbantwe. When the overland Telegraph Station was build out of town that became known as Alice’s Spring after Alice Todd wife of Sir Charles Todd. Eventually it became too confusing to have two names for what was essentially one place and Alice Springs it became (Aussies, we are told, are naturally lazy and that is easier to pronounce than Alice’s Spring). The town grew with the 1887 gold rush. The telegraph station is still there on the edge of town and that was our dinner destination for the evening. We arrived at dusk to be greeted with love music and, of course, champagne. It never gets boring.
We ate as the sun went down serenaded by a live band. The Milky Way was visible above us. Some of our travelling companions in ‘Platinum’ were a little too much for us (never discuss politics at dinner) but I found myself seated next to the guy who played triangle on a Thompson Twins single hit (if he was to be believed) and we talked 80s music for a while. Conversation across the table was getting heated. My wife and I went for a walk. We decided to opt out of the camel rides but did join our Red Centre companions at their ‘Gold’ table for a few laughs.
[At this point I should say that we opted for the Platinum package because we wanted a flat bed experience rather than bunks. Neither of us were comfortable with the level of privilege shown by some of our coach mates. It costs nothing to be nice only some people seem to forget that. We have family who work in the hospitality industry and make it a habit not to treat service staff rudely.]
Whilst some people chose to dance into the wee small hours we took the shuttle coach back to the Ghan for a quiet nightcap (brought to your room) and an early-ish night, it was still close to midnight. Once the last passengers were on board we started to move slowly through the desert towards Coober Pedy.
It’s been a busy year. Lots of pre booked and in waiting post (lol) pandemic fun to be had now we have been allowed out. That said, gigs were missed due to covid and bad weather this year, too, but not the trip down under. The world looks a little different. Some people didn’t make it this far, yet others were born. Same as any year and not at all like anything I’ve experienced before. I trust that the future will be just as unpredictable as the past was when it, too, was the future. My best wishes to one and all. I’ll keep trolling on about my stuff here, and who knows, maybe you’ll stay with me. I wish anyone reading all the best for the future however long it lasts.
Mount Connor rolled into view after a good few hours on the road. Smiley called it out. ‘Look a big rock’ … It’s no Uluru. Actually quite a different shape, but it sent everyone scrambling for their phones and cameras. Even though I expected this ruse, the feeling of getting so close to ‘that’ big rock was overwhelming.
To backtrack a little we’d been on the road for several hours. Mostly on corrugated dirt highway, Smiler had provided commentary and we’d been on the lookout for camel, giant lizards and, had seen Brumbies running wild (gorgeous, golden horses). He put on an Aussie classic ‘The Castle‘ (and a true story) for us to watch and we settled back for a long haul. People were quiet and tired after a couple of days of extreme heat and long drop toilets. (If you know, you know). I am in awe of the energy Smiler and Karen bring to their work every day. They deserve a chill too.
A ‘long drop’ toilet
We had our Afternoon tea at a station called Curtin Spring which lies outside the region supplied by the Great Artesian Basin aquifer and had not seen rain in over 9 years. They do have bore holes drilled on the property and are well enough supplied. We were introduced to station life by the wife of the current station owner in the tea room what they call the ‘bough house’ which has served as the only shelter for the family for 15 years when they first moved into the land. You can just see the grey spinifex grass roof on the left hand side of the image below (under the satellite dish). There were were no walls only the shade of a wire and grass roof. You have to be a certain kind of resilient to live out here. The wives made tea for travellers in part to get some company whilst the men were away dealing with the livestock and partly because food and water are hard to come by and hospitality highly prized.
Curtin Springs Station
Curtin Springs suffered like many small businesses during the pandemic with fewer tourists due to both internal and external travel restrictions. Who knows where the idea came from but they decided that they could make high grade artists paper and set about making it happen. We were treated to a paper making talk and demo in the old slaughterhouse which now houses the paper making and the containers which form the gallery exhibiting work by the station owners daughter. Naturally we were given samples and bought more of this high quality product. (No, they re not sponsoring me but you can buy paper through the link).
Finally back on the black top road Uluru loomed into sight. Its a hard to describe feeling. This really is one of the wonders of the world. Personally I’ll take Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) over Uluru (Ayres Rock) any day. Smiler took us for a brief circuit of Uluru before depositing us at the hotel. Sadly this was quite Americanised and as such jarred with the feel of the park. Yulara is a purpose built resort just outside the Uluru /Kata Tjuta National Park. As the sacred spaces have now been returned to the First People (the Anangu) and they have come to an arrangement in leasing the land back to the NT government and use the money to run their local school and house the community. Obviously its a massive draw and there are hundreds of people who want to experience this incredible place but the annoyance of a pool with piped pop tunes and a lot of people more intent on the hotel than the countryside was a disappointment. Oh, its lovely, clean, great food … oddly two double beds in the room … but massive and busy and would not have been my first choice but then all the hotels (there are about 6 of them) all seem much of a muchness. It served as a place to sleep and we were not there much.
Uluru in the evening sun
The big rock does change with the light and we had the chance to see it from dawn to dark (although the clouds on day two rather spoiled the sunrise). The coaches were provided by a different company as we were whisked away to the ‘Sounds of Silence’ bush tucker inspired dinner overlooking both these spectacular geological sights. Sadly there was a digeridoo player there to greet us … the Anagu do not use these. Hey ho. Champagne and the sunset then on to dinner.
Kata Tjuta at sunset
Once dinner was over all the lights were extinguished and a voice came out of the darkness. Our Star Talker had arrived to weave local stories with astronomy and astrology to show us around the night sky and for me my first glimpse of the milky way. They left the lights off for the remainder of the evening as we used our torches and a few shielded foot level lights to make our way down to where a telescope had been set up to allow us a clear view of Saturn and its rings. Full of champagne and excellent food we were ferried back to the hotel.
Of course tomorrow was our chance to explore further.
So many people do not realise that a desert can be cold as well as hot. At home right now it’s minus three degrees centigrade. It’s been like this, though not quite as cold, for about three days now. I’m about to tell you what life was like in the Red Centre of Australia in 39 – 40 degrees.
The frost this morning
Alice Springs overnight before heading off on the Larapinta highway and tne Merenee Loop to Kings Canyon. I’m just gonna bung a load of photos in here. Suffice to say it’s no ordinary ‘minibus’ that carries us and Outback Spirit need to give Smiley Oz and wife Karen a bonus for the value added commentary and obvious joy they have in the NT. (Northern Territory) even if Karen is a Scouser (a person from Liverpool).
At Alice Springs Station
All I can do is recommend a visit to Alice. It is like nowhere you’ve ever been. A quick tour of Flynn’s memorial (the guy that invented the Flying Doctor Service), ANZAC Hill, (more of which later) and a whizz round downtown Alice and we were deposited at the hotel for the night. We were warned not to venture out after dark because of some recent incidents but, honestly it does not feel like a scary place. Next door was Lasseter’s Casino (made famous in Pricilla Queen of the Desert if not before).
Out early (every morning was early) onto the bus (with Smiler, our driver, supplying a commentary and soundtrack ( a link to Spotify) and Larapinta Drive out of Alice. This was to be a day of wonders. First stop Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), where we picked up the stories of Albert Namatjira and his art. Onto Namatjira Drive, named for the man himself. We passed the ochre pits and learned about sunscreen and bush craft. On to Ormiston Gorge (Quarta Tooma) and the waterhole made famous by one of the ‘White Gum’ paintings that made Namatjira’s name.
I’m being careful to include First People names where I can as these lands are contested and the names are gradually being returned to them. I’ll not include images of every tourist spot please look them up if you’re interested. Out final stop on the ‘black top’ highway was a little known spot that is the scene of a meteor landing and where the crater is still visible. There is something about standing in the eroded base of a meteor crater that makes you feel really small, especially knowing that 1000s of feet have already been eroded from the hills surrounding you which form its walls.
Then we went … I was going to say off road but in reality onto a thing they call the Mereene Loop. This is a corrugated dirt road and we were at the start of the wet season. We are sitting in s 25 seater minibus. Bouncing along. Swerving to avoid puddles for the next 3 hours or more. Sounds exciting eh? Our ‘minibus’ was in fact a converted lorry. Seriously build for these conditions, 4×4, high road clearance, leather seats mini video screens, coolers for food and water. We pulled up at one point to hand over water to a guy whose car had overheated (its what country people do) and to check he had help on its way. You never leave a fellow traveller on these roads. Along the Loop we saw Brumbies, Desert Oak, Gums of various varieties, Grass trees, and still no Roos.
Destination Kings Canyon. (see earlier Pricilla reference) and the Kings Canyon Resort. Now ‘resort’ means a different sort of thing in Australia than what you might be expecting….
of the world. Yep! Australia. As far from here as we could get (Joking that we could have a new PM by the time we got home…we did) for three glorious weeks. 9 beds in 21 days and a little sleep on the plane(s) too. People if you have the chance to do this trip please take it. We took the Ghan!
If you’re not aware of the Ghan let me tell you this is no ordinary train.
Named for the Afghan cameleers who helped to keep trade and communication going across Australia. It runs 2979km from Darwin to Adelaide and vice versa. You can take a straight trip or an expedition or even get off in the middle for a few days, which is what we did, with 6 glorious days in the Red Centre. No, its not cheap but it is all inclusive and lots of people choose to celebrate a ‘big’ birthday on board or have some other reason to celebrate.
We went Platinum because who wants to climb into a bunk bed on a train? There is a Gold class too (bunk beds) and single cabins for those without claustrophobic tendencies. For those with mobility issues Journey Beyond do offer specialist cabins though these are limited. (They are not paying me for this post as, frankly, they don’t need my help) They’re booking 2024 at time of writing and don’t bet on getting a Platinum cabin as they sell out fast! We did the ‘Red Centre Spectacular’ and our guides Smiler and Karen with Outback Spirit were brilliant but more of them later.
Long flight….loooooong flight. Word of advice pay for the best seat you can afford on the plane. We went Qantas business class (it was a celebration). Fully reclining beds for the win. Turning left onto the plane for the first time. Being greeted with champagne. Menu with actual choices! Snacks on demand. A snuggly duvet. As many drinks as you like all for no extra cost….eat your heart out EasyJet. Big thank you to all the staff (especially those on the Adelaide to Perth leg who dealt with a medical emergency very calmly whilst we were on board) who were patient and kind throughout.
First stop Darwin. (OK, there was an exhausted overnight in Sydney but we saw nothing of the city).
But I’m.sure you already knew that. Some 30 odd hours after leaving for home we have arrived. More tales of the past month’s adventure when I wake up properly.
ffiftypluses 