Back on the Train, Gang!

Everyone was up and ready for our transfer to the station. I have to admit it felt odd not to have Smiler and Karen looking after us and we were a little twitchy as to what form our transfer would take. Turns out it was a very nice local minibus taxi and they delivered us in time to see the Ghan pull into the station. Once there our bags were checked ready for delivery to our cabins for later. Choices for today’s Ghan related trips were a tour of Alice (been there done that), an animal encounter at the Desert Park (my wife’s choice) and Simpson’s Gap. I went for the Gap. Oh sure we may have gone to ANZAC hill again but this time there was the bonus view, the train. Only seeing it from up there can give any realistic idea of what a 1km train looks like.

The thin red and silver line across the centre of the image is the Ghan. Alice spreads only as far as you can see and is no allowed beyond the current city limits as this is now Arrente land. Once we passed Flynn’s memorial again we were off to Simpson’s gap.

Once again this place has been immortalised by Albert Namatjura. It was busier than many sites we’d visited but still fresh from the coach we were greeted by a Bearded Dragon (lizard) and some pink birds I’m informed were Major Mitchell’s cockatoos posing in a tree for their close up. As ever this being Australia the rivers run underground except in times of flood and we were able to crunch along the sandy river bed where the Blood Gums grew until we reached the water hole that marks the end of the tourist area and the start of First People’s land. You get some idea of the scale of the place from the little figures in this image. A rocky area near the gap itself kept us captivated for some time as we scoured the area for sight of the Black Rock Wallaby. They did not disappoint but you try photographing one!

Lunch was served at the Desert Park where we met up with our train mates. I’m not sure who had the better day. Getting close up and personal with the local wildlife and watching the staff fly birds of prey sounded pretty cool to me. For those who felt the need to shop there was a drop off in the town centre but we opted for a cool down and a shower on board before our evening’s entertainment. Alice Springs was not done with us yet.

The town was called Stuart (after the explorer) or originally Mbantwe. When the overland Telegraph Station was build out of town that became known as Alice’s Spring after Alice Todd wife of Sir Charles Todd. Eventually it became too confusing to have two names for what was essentially one place and Alice Springs it became (Aussies, we are told, are naturally lazy and that is easier to pronounce than Alice’s Spring). The town grew with the 1887 gold rush. The telegraph station is still there on the edge of town and that was our dinner destination for the evening. We arrived at dusk to be greeted with love music and, of course, champagne. It never gets boring.

We ate as the sun went down serenaded by a live band. The Milky Way was visible above us. Some of our travelling companions in ‘Platinum’ were a little too much for us (never discuss politics at dinner) but I found myself seated next to the guy who played triangle on a Thompson Twins single hit (if he was to be believed) and we talked 80s music for a while. Conversation across the table was getting heated. My wife and I went for a walk. We decided to opt out of the camel rides but did join our Red Centre companions at their ‘Gold’ table for a few laughs.

[At this point I should say that we opted for the Platinum package because we wanted a flat bed experience rather than bunks. Neither of us were comfortable with the level of privilege shown by some of our coach mates. It costs nothing to be nice only some people seem to forget that. We have family who work in the hospitality industry and make it a habit not to treat service staff rudely.]

Whilst some people chose to dance into the wee small hours we took the shuttle coach back to the Ghan for a quiet nightcap (brought to your room) and an early-ish night, it was still close to midnight. Once the last passengers were on board we started to move slowly through the desert towards Coober Pedy.

New Years Eve

It’s been a busy year. Lots of pre booked and in waiting post (lol) pandemic fun to be had now we have been allowed out. That said, gigs were missed due to covid and bad weather this year, too, but not the trip down under. The world looks a little different. Some people didn’t make it this far, yet others were born. Same as any year and not at all like anything I’ve experienced before. I trust that the future will be just as unpredictable as the past was when it, too, was the future. My best wishes to one and all. I’ll keep trolling on about my stuff here, and who knows, maybe you’ll stay with me. I wish anyone reading all the best for the future however long it lasts.

Meanwhile back in the desert…

So many people do not realise that a desert can be cold as well as hot. At home right now it’s minus three degrees centigrade. It’s been like this, though not quite as cold, for about three days now. I’m about to tell you what life was like in the Red Centre of Australia in 39 – 40 degrees.

The frost this morning

Alice Springs overnight before heading off on the Larapinta highway and tne Merenee Loop to Kings Canyon. I’m just gonna bung a load of photos in here. Suffice to say it’s no ordinary ‘minibus’ that carries us and Outback Spirit need to give Smiley Oz and wife Karen a bonus for the value added commentary and obvious joy they have in the NT. (Northern Territory) even if Karen is a Scouser (a person from Liverpool).

At Alice Springs Station

All I can do is recommend a visit to Alice. It is like nowhere you’ve ever been. A quick tour of Flynn’s memorial (the guy that invented the Flying Doctor Service), ANZAC Hill, (more of which later) and a whizz round downtown Alice and we were deposited at the hotel for the night. We were warned not to venture out after dark because of some recent incidents but, honestly it does not feel like a scary place. Next door was Lasseter’s Casino (made famous in Pricilla Queen of the Desert if not before).

Out early (every morning was early) onto the bus (with Smiler, our driver, supplying a commentary and soundtrack ( a link to Spotify) and Larapinta Drive out of Alice. This was to be a day of wonders. First stop Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), where we picked up the stories of Albert Namatjira and his art. Onto Namatjira Drive, named for the man himself. We passed the ochre pits and learned about sunscreen and bush craft. On to Ormiston Gorge (Quarta Tooma) and the waterhole made famous by one of the ‘White Gum’ paintings that made Namatjira’s name.

I’m being careful to include First People names where I can as these lands are contested and the names are gradually being returned to them. I’ll not include images of every tourist spot please look them up if you’re interested. Out final stop on the ‘black top’ highway was a little known spot that is the scene of a meteor landing and where the crater is still visible. There is something about standing in the eroded base of a meteor crater that makes you feel really small, especially knowing that 1000s of feet have already been eroded from the hills surrounding you which form its walls.

Then we went … I was going to say off road but in reality onto a thing they call the Mereene Loop. This is a corrugated dirt road and we were at the start of the wet season. We are sitting in s 25 seater minibus. Bouncing along. Swerving to avoid puddles for the next 3 hours or more. Sounds exciting eh? Our ‘minibus’ was in fact a converted lorry. Seriously build for these conditions, 4×4, high road clearance, leather seats mini video screens, coolers for food and water. We pulled up at one point to hand over water to a guy whose car had overheated (its what country people do) and to check he had help on its way. You never leave a fellow traveller on these roads. Along the Loop we saw Brumbies, Desert Oak, Gums of various varieties, Grass trees, and still no Roos.

Destination Kings Canyon. (see earlier Pricilla reference) and the Kings Canyon Resort. Now ‘resort’ means a different sort of thing in Australia than what you might be expecting….

Going on the Ghan

You’ve no doubt heard of the Orient Express, maybe even the Trans Canadian or the Rocky Mountaineer, but this … is the GHAN! Our voyage, for this is in effect a land cruise, began at the freight terminal in Darwin. Not so glamourous? Well yes, actually. While there’s no waiting room as such and definitely no café the staff make up for it all with cold bottles of water and a sunny disposition to a fault. Platinum baby! Walk straight through, let us run you to your carriage by golf buggy. Now it that seems extreme let me tell you that this train is almost a kilometre long and its cracking 37 degrees centigrade.

We hop on and are shown to the carriage where the champagne flutes are soon filled by staff (yes, and re filled if you want, this is all inclusive). There are water bottles and a brochure of off train excursions to choose read for our first stop but no before lunch. The train menu reflects produce from across Australia from barramundi to kangaroo (Yes, we ate the national symbol … emu too). The wine list is filled with the best the continent can offer … and a little Bolly Dahling!

We leave bang on time with lunch served in the Platinum dining room as we head towards the station at Katherine. I’ll tell you more about different trips as we go along. As to this one We chose the gorge cruise at Nitmiluk (previously known as the Katherine George). The gorges (there are 20 or so flood to different levels depending on the time of year and we arrived at the driest point. Nitmiluk cruises are run by the local first people, the Jawoyn. White (European) Australians have begun a reparation for a lot of bad stuff. Everywhere we went the tour operators thanked local elders past present and future for use of the land. A first it seems like a gimmick but this is serious work and willingly undertaken. Our captain and tour guide was Jawoyn and wove local stories into a commentary about crocodiles and film crews, rock art and floods. How privileged to be given this insight, what an amazing place and how much remains off limits to us (as it should be). between 40 and 65,000 years of history here.

Back to the train for a cocktail before diner (or a coffee). Dining is relaxed and you can choose to share with fellow passengers, there are a lot of couples, or dine a deux. We avoided those who treated the staff like servants, we have family in the service industry and we’re not rude people. As I said in my piece on how to be a good guest being nice costs nothing. From the ‘amuse bouche’ to the sweet we tried everything and I mean everything one of each dish for each course. Hey, we were on holiday! The cabin was turned down when we arrived back after eating , chocolate on the pillow, nightcap (preordered) waiting on the side table. As the sun set over the increasingly red earth we headed off to Alice Springs through the darkness.

Barely time to exhale

I’m not much for long goodbyes but I’ve spoken to my patents twice in two days and apparently I’m now booked for 3 talks to 2 groups of older adults once we return and we haven’t quite gone yet. I don’t know what you do before going on holiday we clean. Apparently. There may be a future in ‘talks to community groups’. I’ve got one to do for the scuba club too.

The house is mid renovation. Needed the new plaster fixing. Spare bed made up for the cat wrangler/house sitter. Sourdough baked (you have to leave treats), floors swept, hoovering done (for US readers I mean vacuuming). Supplies purchased…firewood, Dr Pepper (I know, I don’t get it either), cat food. Frankly I’ve had less busy work weeks. What fresh food was left is going into tonight’s meal. Tomorrow is for online check in and train to the airport. Fuuuuck. This is actually happening. I suspect I’ll believe it once I get on the plane.

Where we are going there is unlikely to be any WiFi, or phone signal. Updates when I can.

Paperwork

Visa applied for and received… 10 minutes.  Wife’s visa applied for ….. still waiting. Flights ( multiple) checked. Hotels checked….oh shit…that one is booked for next year … free cancellation and rebooked for this year (oops!). Train tbc but that’s the last part of the puzzle. This year’s trip is a big one. Oh, we’re not off yet. No first there’s a wedding and gig and all ki ds of normal stuff to to but the anticipation is becoming palpable (big word for a Sunday).

Ivwr the coming weeks and months the there will be the arrival of the wife’s visa (hopefully), the unofficial quarantine just in case. The test packing. Repacking. Unpacking and re test packing. The camera practice. Perhaps a little dietary adjustment to ensure the fit of the prepacked clothing. Jabs, extra medicines… all the usual pre trip things. Oh..insurance… don’t forget that.

Cat/house sitter confirmed. Money to change. Bank to be informed.

And then again the new fireplace needs fitting. Then there’s the re plastering bu ti doubt the decorating will get done this side of the exodus. Not that there’s any pressure. None. Really. Well maybe a bit. Oh, did you remember…

Sunshine and Showers

We do not do heat well in the UK. Usually summer falls on a damp Wednesday in July and we sit around drinking our teas slightly more tepid than usual so we can cool off. This year however we seem to have had almost a week of extreme heat. To all my Australian chums I say, yes 40 degrees C, in London (!) and even in Lancashire 37 degrees. I accidentally left my diving computer in the car and it reached 43 degrees in side there before I rescued the poor thing. Dogs and computers die in hot cars. The hype is such that there is talk of disallowing any sun cream under factor 30. I know that Aussie chums will sniff and state that nothing under factor 50 will do…except staying indoors until winter.

Naturally the moment the schools break up for the summer it begins to pour down and winds blow up to 40 miles an hour up the Welsh coast ruining your ‘staycation’ which you were secretly gloating over when your mate got stuck in a 7+ hour queue for the ferry at Dover because Brexit and the end of freedom to travel. Not so many LOLZ as the tent came down in a hooley eh? As if the new strain of Covid and a stack of staff illness/resignation etc. hadn’t overworked the NHS enough now there’s a crop of folks with heatstroke. I’m feeling particularly political and contentious today (so hang me) and suggest that nurses need a decent pay rise and the promised ‘Brexit dividend’ needs to reach the NHS pronto alongside the extra funds from the new higher National Insurance.

On a lighter note we managed to persuade even the most skittish of our cats to lay on the cool mat we bought for them… when we weren’t using it of course. Apparently there’s another heatwave on the way. That should be fun.