Everyone was up and ready for our transfer to the station. I have to admit it felt odd not to have Smiler and Karen looking after us and we were a little twitchy as to what form our transfer would take. Turns out it was a very nice local minibus taxi and they delivered us in time to see the Ghan pull into the station. Once there our bags were checked ready for delivery to our cabins for later. Choices for today’s Ghan related trips were a tour of Alice (been there done that), an animal encounter at the Desert Park (my wife’s choice) and Simpson’s Gap. I went for the Gap. Oh sure we may have gone to ANZAC hill again but this time there was the bonus view, the train. Only seeing it from up there can give any realistic idea of what a 1km train looks like.

The thin red and silver line across the centre of the image is the Ghan. Alice spreads only as far as you can see and is no allowed beyond the current city limits as this is now Arrente land. Once we passed Flynn’s memorial again we were off to Simpson’s gap.
Once again this place has been immortalised by Albert Namatjura. It was busier than many sites we’d visited but still fresh from the coach we were greeted by a Bearded Dragon (lizard) and some pink birds I’m informed were Major Mitchell’s cockatoos posing in a tree for their close up. As ever this being Australia the rivers run underground except in times of flood and we were able to crunch along the sandy river bed where the Blood Gums grew until we reached the water hole that marks the end of the tourist area and the start of First People’s land. You get some idea of the scale of the place from the little figures in this image. A rocky area near the gap itself kept us captivated for some time as we scoured the area for sight of the Black Rock Wallaby. They did not disappoint but you try photographing one!

Lunch was served at the Desert Park where we met up with our train mates. I’m not sure who had the better day. Getting close up and personal with the local wildlife and watching the staff fly birds of prey sounded pretty cool to me. For those who felt the need to shop there was a drop off in the town centre but we opted for a cool down and a shower on board before our evening’s entertainment. Alice Springs was not done with us yet.
The town was called Stuart (after the explorer) or originally Mbantwe. When the overland Telegraph Station was build out of town that became known as Alice’s Spring after Alice Todd wife of Sir Charles Todd. Eventually it became too confusing to have two names for what was essentially one place and Alice Springs it became (Aussies, we are told, are naturally lazy and that is easier to pronounce than Alice’s Spring). The town grew with the 1887 gold rush. The telegraph station is still there on the edge of town and that was our dinner destination for the evening. We arrived at dusk to be greeted with love music and, of course, champagne. It never gets boring.


We ate as the sun went down serenaded by a live band. The Milky Way was visible above us. Some of our travelling companions in ‘Platinum’ were a little too much for us (never discuss politics at dinner) but I found myself seated next to the guy who played triangle on a Thompson Twins single hit (if he was to be believed) and we talked 80s music for a while. Conversation across the table was getting heated. My wife and I went for a walk. We decided to opt out of the camel rides but did join our Red Centre companions at their ‘Gold’ table for a few laughs.
[At this point I should say that we opted for the Platinum package because we wanted a flat bed experience rather than bunks. Neither of us were comfortable with the level of privilege shown by some of our coach mates. It costs nothing to be nice only some people seem to forget that. We have family who work in the hospitality industry and make it a habit not to treat service staff rudely.]
Whilst some people chose to dance into the wee small hours we took the shuttle coach back to the Ghan for a quiet nightcap (brought to your room) and an early-ish night, it was still close to midnight. Once the last passengers were on board we started to move slowly through the desert towards Coober Pedy.
