The Lady Vanishes

I know, Harrogate. Scene of Agatha Christie’s disappearance. I know, spa town, source of sulphourus waters. Actually I didn’t know about the Egyption connection with its own diggers on Howard Carter’s team. Its a pretty great place for a day or two…if you don’t mind hills.

Hotel staircase

The hotel was antwacky. Mainly and elderly clientele but with a few families thrown in for good measure. Staff ever so polite. I bet the place was quite something when it had its own Turkish baths now sadly closed (although the ones in town are still open but heavily booked well in advance). There were a number of sepia photos in the lobby (formerly known as the Winter Gardens).

Day one dump bags saunter into town for lunch. Quirky bistro called the Quirky Farm. Not fast food but well worth the wait. Then on to a row of small, locally owned shops to buy fabric and best of all collect a couple of Angela Brazil novels which I didn’t yet possess. Any visit to any town with an antiquarian and second hand book store is a joy and a privilege. Diner served at 7.30 after a G’n’T in the bar. Well managed carvery style cutting down on staff as the hotel had suffered the double blow of COVID 19 and Brexit taking its staff.

Day two. Leisurely breakfast (all you can eat buffet style) and check out before wandering in to visit the Pump House museum although we did not take the waters. Found the local gallery with its exhibition of spa towns around the world in photos, paintings and historic documents. By now it was almost time … we walked slowly encountering a chap selling some sort of cd from a rack besides his beautifully restored Austin 7. Now I have a soft spot for these little gems as my dad owned one which he restored, and won prizes with, when I was much younger. I was small enough to comfortably climb through the gap for the back window then. Don’t think I could do that now. To anyone who has yet to visit a vintage car and/or steam rally with its colour, noise and smell or oil and coal I suggest that you vet to one soon before they become impossible with a ban on fossil fuel.

Mini cakes

The highlight of the midweekend (not actually a weekend but we pretended it was anyway) was afternoon tea at Betty’s. Harrogate officionados will be familiar with the queue of around 40 minutes just for tea and a cake. We took the civilised option and booked. The Imperial Room above the main shop and cafe is all that you’d imagine. White linen cloths, potted palms and impeccably dressed staff. A live pianist playing in one corner. Every care was taken to ensure allergens were removed and we ate. More sandwiches, no problem. Another pot of tea? Certainly. All in the price.

I recommend the concept of the midweekend. Some might call it a mini retirement or a holiday. All I know is that a couple of days looking at a different place is good for the soul. BTW we didn’t join in with the TaiChi in the park but may e we should have.