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Meanwhile back in the desert…

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So many people do not realise that a desert can be cold as well as hot. At home right now it’s minus three degrees centigrade. It’s been like this, though not quite as cold, for about three days now. I’m about to tell you what life was like in the Red Centre of Australia in 39 – 40 degrees.

The frost this morning

Alice Springs overnight before heading off on the Larapinta highway and tne Merenee Loop to Kings Canyon. I’m just gonna bung a load of photos in here. Suffice to say it’s no ordinary ‘minibus’ that carries us and Outback Spirit need to give Smiley Oz and wife Karen a bonus for the value added commentary and obvious joy they have in the NT. (Northern Territory) even if Karen is a Scouser (a person from Liverpool).

At Alice Springs Station

All I can do is recommend a visit to Alice. It is like nowhere you’ve ever been. A quick tour of Flynn’s memorial (the guy that invented the Flying Doctor Service), ANZAC Hill, (more of which later) and a whizz round downtown Alice and we were deposited at the hotel for the night. We were warned not to venture out after dark because of some recent incidents but, honestly it does not feel like a scary place. Next door was Lasseter’s Casino (made famous in Pricilla Queen of the Desert if not before).

Out early (every morning was early) onto the bus (with Smiler, our driver, supplying a commentary and soundtrack ( a link to Spotify) and Larapinta Drive out of Alice. This was to be a day of wonders. First stop Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), where we picked up the stories of Albert Namatjira and his art. Onto Namatjira Drive, named for the man himself. We passed the ochre pits and learned about sunscreen and bush craft. On to Ormiston Gorge (Quarta Tooma) and the waterhole made famous by one of the ‘White Gum’ paintings that made Namatjira’s name.

I’m being careful to include First People names where I can as these lands are contested and the names are gradually being returned to them. I’ll not include images of every tourist spot please look them up if you’re interested. Out final stop on the ‘black top’ highway was a little known spot that is the scene of a meteor landing and where the crater is still visible. There is something about standing in the eroded base of a meteor crater that makes you feel really small, especially knowing that 1000s of feet have already been eroded from the hills surrounding you which form its walls.

Then we went … I was going to say off road but in reality onto a thing they call the Mereene Loop. This is a corrugated dirt road and we were at the start of the wet season. We are sitting in s 25 seater minibus. Bouncing along. Swerving to avoid puddles for the next 3 hours or more. Sounds exciting eh? Our ‘minibus’ was in fact a converted lorry. Seriously build for these conditions, 4×4, high road clearance, leather seats mini video screens, coolers for food and water. We pulled up at one point to hand over water to a guy whose car had overheated (its what country people do) and to check he had help on its way. You never leave a fellow traveller on these roads. Along the Loop we saw Brumbies, Desert Oak, Gums of various varieties, Grass trees, and still no Roos.

Destination Kings Canyon. (see earlier Pricilla reference) and the Kings Canyon Resort. Now ‘resort’ means a different sort of thing in Australia than what you might be expecting….

Going on the Ghan

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You’ve no doubt heard of the Orient Express, maybe even the Trans Canadian or the Rocky Mountaineer, but this … is the GHAN! Our voyage, for this is in effect a land cruise, began at the freight terminal in Darwin. Not so glamourous? Well yes, actually. While there’s no waiting room as such and definitely no café the staff make up for it all with cold bottles of water and a sunny disposition to a fault. Platinum baby! Walk straight through, let us run you to your carriage by golf buggy. Now it that seems extreme let me tell you that this train is almost a kilometre long and its cracking 37 degrees centigrade.

We hop on and are shown to the carriage where the champagne flutes are soon filled by staff (yes, and re filled if you want, this is all inclusive). There are water bottles and a brochure of off train excursions to choose read for our first stop but no before lunch. The train menu reflects produce from across Australia from barramundi to kangaroo (Yes, we ate the national symbol … emu too). The wine list is filled with the best the continent can offer … and a little Bolly Dahling!

We leave bang on time with lunch served in the Platinum dining room as we head towards the station at Katherine. I’ll tell you more about different trips as we go along. As to this one We chose the gorge cruise at Nitmiluk (previously known as the Katherine George). The gorges (there are 20 or so flood to different levels depending on the time of year and we arrived at the driest point. Nitmiluk cruises are run by the local first people, the Jawoyn. White (European) Australians have begun a reparation for a lot of bad stuff. Everywhere we went the tour operators thanked local elders past present and future for use of the land. A first it seems like a gimmick but this is serious work and willingly undertaken. Our captain and tour guide was Jawoyn and wove local stories into a commentary about crocodiles and film crews, rock art and floods. How privileged to be given this insight, what an amazing place and how much remains off limits to us (as it should be). between 40 and 65,000 years of history here.

Back to the train for a cocktail before diner (or a coffee). Dining is relaxed and you can choose to share with fellow passengers, there are a lot of couples, or dine a deux. We avoided those who treated the staff like servants, we have family in the service industry and we’re not rude people. As I said in my piece on how to be a good guest being nice costs nothing. From the ‘amuse bouche’ to the sweet we tried everything and I mean everything one of each dish for each course. Hey, we were on holiday! The cabin was turned down when we arrived back after eating , chocolate on the pillow, nightcap (preordered) waiting on the side table. As the sun set over the increasingly red earth we headed off to Alice Springs through the darkness.

Barely time to exhale

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I’m not much for long goodbyes but I’ve spoken to my patents twice in two days and apparently I’m now booked for 3 talks to 2 groups of older adults once we return and we haven’t quite gone yet. I don’t know what you do before going on holiday we clean. Apparently. There may be a future in ‘talks to community groups’. I’ve got one to do for the scuba club too.

The house is mid renovation. Needed the new plaster fixing. Spare bed made up for the cat wrangler/house sitter. Sourdough baked (you have to leave treats), floors swept, hoovering done (for US readers I mean vacuuming). Supplies purchased…firewood, Dr Pepper (I know, I don’t get it either), cat food. Frankly I’ve had less busy work weeks. What fresh food was left is going into tonight’s meal. Tomorrow is for online check in and train to the airport. Fuuuuck. This is actually happening. I suspect I’ll believe it once I get on the plane.

Where we are going there is unlikely to be any WiFi, or phone signal. Updates when I can.

Two little pricks

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So last week was the ‘flu jab and today Covid 4, the much anticipated but unwanted sequel. I arrived home to the announcement that a friend we dined with on Friday has tested positive. Ah well, the test won’t work on me today anyway. It’s officially lockdown for us as of today whatever. The big adventure is but days away. Single figures. Supplies are laid in and the house sitter is confirmed.

Burning desires?

There are logs enough to keep the home fires burning until we slope off. TBH I’m more than a tad nervous. It’s been a while since I’ve left the country to be sure. The pandemic has its continuing effect. Collecting the holiday cash this very afternoon made it all a bit more real but I suspect that until I set foot on that plane. It may be a while before the next update. I’ll be out of signal range. Allons y.

The Queen is Dead

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This is, by now, old news. Its been 11 days or so at time of writing. Most of us in the UK and even the rest of the world have never known another monarch in the UK. I’ve a tendency toward republicanism but I’ve also met the Queen and several other royals in the course of a lifetime through school, Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme and the Guide movement. Its a strange feeling. On the one hand I’m sorry for the family who have not been able to process this in private and on the other I think that this is the price of their privilege. Am I sorry she is gone? Not at a personal level, she was 96 it was hardly unexpected. I do have many fears for the UK though.

Charles is a different character. He has opinions which he has been known to express in public (I guess I should say ‘the King’ not Charles). These seem to contradict the current right wing leanings of the UK government on issues such as the environment and deportations to Rwanda. Technically he can stop these at any time by refusing to sign any Bill into law. I wonder if he would? I wonder what the consequences would be? I’m extremely concerned by the conduct of the current government and wonder how many more losses the British people will stand before someone stands up and throws the first brick. Martin Luther King described a riot as the voice of the unheard. What will it take? I’m fairly certain that it is coming. Elizabeth II is dead and the stability that her presence brought to the nation is gone.

Watch this space.

Paperwork

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Visa applied for and received… 10 minutes.  Wife’s visa applied for ….. still waiting. Flights ( multiple) checked. Hotels checked….oh shit…that one is booked for next year … free cancellation and rebooked for this year (oops!). Train tbc but that’s the last part of the puzzle. This year’s trip is a big one. Oh, we’re not off yet. No first there’s a wedding and gig and all ki ds of normal stuff to to but the anticipation is becoming palpable (big word for a Sunday).

Ivwr the coming weeks and months the there will be the arrival of the wife’s visa (hopefully), the unofficial quarantine just in case. The test packing. Repacking. Unpacking and re test packing. The camera practice. Perhaps a little dietary adjustment to ensure the fit of the prepacked clothing. Jabs, extra medicines… all the usual pre trip things. Oh..insurance… don’t forget that.

Cat/house sitter confirmed. Money to change. Bank to be informed.

And then again the new fireplace needs fitting. Then there’s the re plastering bu ti doubt the decorating will get done this side of the exodus. Not that there’s any pressure. None. Really. Well maybe a bit. Oh, did you remember…

Sunshine and Showers

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We do not do heat well in the UK. Usually summer falls on a damp Wednesday in July and we sit around drinking our teas slightly more tepid than usual so we can cool off. This year however we seem to have had almost a week of extreme heat. To all my Australian chums I say, yes 40 degrees C, in London (!) and even in Lancashire 37 degrees. I accidentally left my diving computer in the car and it reached 43 degrees in side there before I rescued the poor thing. Dogs and computers die in hot cars. The hype is such that there is talk of disallowing any sun cream under factor 30. I know that Aussie chums will sniff and state that nothing under factor 50 will do…except staying indoors until winter.

Naturally the moment the schools break up for the summer it begins to pour down and winds blow up to 40 miles an hour up the Welsh coast ruining your ‘staycation’ which you were secretly gloating over when your mate got stuck in a 7+ hour queue for the ferry at Dover because Brexit and the end of freedom to travel. Not so many LOLZ as the tent came down in a hooley eh? As if the new strain of Covid and a stack of staff illness/resignation etc. hadn’t overworked the NHS enough now there’s a crop of folks with heatstroke. I’m feeling particularly political and contentious today (so hang me) and suggest that nurses need a decent pay rise and the promised ‘Brexit dividend’ needs to reach the NHS pronto alongside the extra funds from the new higher National Insurance.

On a lighter note we managed to persuade even the most skittish of our cats to lay on the cool mat we bought for them… when we weren’t using it of course. Apparently there’s another heatwave on the way. That should be fun.

Repeat

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I have a confession to make. I do consumer competitions. You know the ones splashed down your chocolate bar or on a nifty collar on your fave tipple…WIN….money, a holiday, car, plastic novelty item, tickets… Another confession. I have won several such prize draws and tests of skill. The point being they are designed to affect your spending choices and to attract your loyalty. I get a magazine with all such ‘contests’ available to me listed. I do t even have to buy the thing (unless that’s an entry requirement). There are also secret oiine cabals with free listings….they even publish the answers.

My point being that way back,I those heady days before the pandemic, I won a two night trip to a rather swanky place. Hoar Cross Hall (Not sponsored) As a marketing ploy it was successful as we go back annually global circumstances permitting. My absence is due to one such brief voyage. We spent 36 glorious hours mainly underground and submerged in water… except when being therapeutically pummelled or Michelin star fed. This is the first occasion I don’t recall seeing a TV or other celeb. There was however a wedding and I realised that I’d previously missed the chapel and a walk around the church which stands in the grounds.

My parents hate the very idea of the’spa’. That’s OK they weren’t invited. Buying time away from the everyday even for a moment, even a fairground ride or a film, is something everyone dies in their own way. A walk at the beach need cost nothing, also true for urban exploration. Take some time. Sit. Think. Play.