Category: Travel

Going on the Ghan

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You’ve no doubt heard of the Orient Express, maybe even the Trans Canadian or the Rocky Mountaineer, but this … is the GHAN! Our voyage, for this is in effect a land cruise, began at the freight terminal in Darwin. Not so glamourous? Well yes, actually. While there’s no waiting room as such and definitely no café the staff make up for it all with cold bottles of water and a sunny disposition to a fault. Platinum baby! Walk straight through, let us run you to your carriage by golf buggy. Now it that seems extreme let me tell you that this train is almost a kilometre long and its cracking 37 degrees centigrade.

We hop on and are shown to the carriage where the champagne flutes are soon filled by staff (yes, and re filled if you want, this is all inclusive). There are water bottles and a brochure of off train excursions to choose read for our first stop but no before lunch. The train menu reflects produce from across Australia from barramundi to kangaroo (Yes, we ate the national symbol … emu too). The wine list is filled with the best the continent can offer … and a little Bolly Dahling!

We leave bang on time with lunch served in the Platinum dining room as we head towards the station at Katherine. I’ll tell you more about different trips as we go along. As to this one We chose the gorge cruise at Nitmiluk (previously known as the Katherine George). The gorges (there are 20 or so flood to different levels depending on the time of year and we arrived at the driest point. Nitmiluk cruises are run by the local first people, the Jawoyn. White (European) Australians have begun a reparation for a lot of bad stuff. Everywhere we went the tour operators thanked local elders past present and future for use of the land. A first it seems like a gimmick but this is serious work and willingly undertaken. Our captain and tour guide was Jawoyn and wove local stories into a commentary about crocodiles and film crews, rock art and floods. How privileged to be given this insight, what an amazing place and how much remains off limits to us (as it should be). between 40 and 65,000 years of history here.

Back to the train for a cocktail before diner (or a coffee). Dining is relaxed and you can choose to share with fellow passengers, there are a lot of couples, or dine a deux. We avoided those who treated the staff like servants, we have family in the service industry and we’re not rude people. As I said in my piece on how to be a good guest being nice costs nothing. From the ‘amuse bouche’ to the sweet we tried everything and I mean everything one of each dish for each course. Hey, we were on holiday! The cabin was turned down when we arrived back after eating , chocolate on the pillow, nightcap (preordered) waiting on the side table. As the sun set over the increasingly red earth we headed off to Alice Springs through the darkness.

Discovering Darwin

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To be honest we had only a couple of days here and day one was major travel tiredz and a thunderstorm but we made it to the famous Mindl Beach Sunday market. Now we are spoiled and come from a great little market town so it has to be pretty spectacular to impress and, whilst it’s lovely, Mindl was a tad disappointing.

OK the storm light was spectacular but most of the market seemed to be food stalls we couldn’t eat from because of our respective allergies. We ended up with sushi rolls which were lobster and cheaper that tuna is at home! There were a few clothing stalls and some interesting alternative medicine things not to mention a significant number of the Larakita people trying to make their grog money by posing for photographs and begging. I spoke to some of the women (they approached me) who told me they are not happy when they are in the city drinking but its different when they are ‘out bush’ hunting. We owe these people more than an apology for what we (Europeans) have done here. Australia is not eight states, one federation but over 200 tribal territories that have existed over 65,000 years as far as we can tell. I personally learned a lot about these cultures whilst touring this great continent…. trust me you are gonna wish you knew what they know.

Darwin was the last place in Australia to be invaded. The Japanese Imperial Airforce rained bombs on the city in February 1942. If you want to hear the full story take yourself off on a harbour cruise at sunset. It’s glorious.

The ‘Gaze and Graze’ platter for two was more than enough food for us and we waddled off the boat after an entertaining couple of hours. Our host and commentator was from Croydon!

One thing I would say of the city or, more accurately, the CBD feels a little off somehow, dangerous? Can’t put my finger on it but I’d no sense of wanting to hang around there. The suburbs, in particular Parap, I enjoyed. Parap has a thriving artistic community (although we did meet Larakia people up and drinking, they were happy) with some pleasant coffee shops and interesting places to eat. It’s tropical. Being outside even for a short while was sweaty and made me long for air con! We had a small yard in the unit we stayed in and no way could I sit outside for more than 10 minutes without needing a drink and a shower. Water is so very important. It becomes an obsession.

But that’s enough for now… next stop our chauffeur driven ride to the Ghan.

We went to the Other Side…

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of the world. Yep! Australia. As far from here as we could get (Joking that we could have a new PM by the time we got home…we did) for three glorious weeks. 9 beds in 21 days and a little sleep on the plane(s) too. People if you have the chance to do this trip please take it. We took the Ghan!

If you’re not aware of the Ghan let me tell you this is no ordinary train.

Image of the Ghan train stopped at Manganuri Statio

Named for the Afghan cameleers who helped to keep trade and communication going across Australia. It runs 2979km from Darwin to Adelaide and vice versa. You can take a straight trip or an expedition or even get off in the middle for a few days, which is what we did, with 6 glorious days in the Red Centre. No, its not cheap but it is all inclusive and lots of people choose to celebrate a ‘big’ birthday on board or have some other reason to celebrate.

We went Platinum because who wants to climb into a bunk bed on a train? There is a Gold class too (bunk beds) and single cabins for those without claustrophobic tendencies. For those with mobility issues Journey Beyond do offer specialist cabins though these are limited. (They are not paying me for this post as, frankly, they don’t need my help) They’re booking 2024 at time of writing and don’t bet on getting a Platinum cabin as they sell out fast! We did the ‘Red Centre Spectacular’ and our guides Smiler and Karen with Outback Spirit were brilliant but more of them later.

Long flight….loooooong flight. Word of advice pay for the best seat you can afford on the plane. We went Qantas business class (it was a celebration). Fully reclining beds for the win. Turning left onto the plane for the first time. Being greeted with champagne. Menu with actual choices! Snacks on demand. A snuggly duvet. As many drinks as you like all for no extra cost….eat your heart out EasyJet. Big thank you to all the staff (especially those on the Adelaide to Perth leg who dealt with a medical emergency very calmly whilst we were on board) who were patient and kind throughout.

First stop Darwin. (OK, there was an exhausted overnight in Sydney but we saw nothing of the city).

Ergo In Arcade Games Est

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Yep. Three floors of video games set to free play…say what! I mean if you’re going to a party but you’re not a party person and then this happens. Hidden in an old industrial area now full of up and coming artists and shops and clubs in a part of Liverpool known as ‘The Baltic Triangle’ is a pub. Hidden within that pub is a video game need fest. ArCains. (No, they’re not paying me to write this)

Moments after the first lager had hit my lips I found myself battling at Pac Man, then shuffleboard which, being a physical game required a different kind of skill. Onwards to the haptic interface that is a ride upon plastic motorbike for a race or two through snow and pixelated jungles. In a moment of quiet I found the old school original Space Invaders and remembered very quickly how bad at it I’ve always been! Pong was next. This time a physical representation of the OG of all video games. Too easy. It was about now that I realised a)I had not eaten and that lager was going to my head and b)there were two more floors of games. I had originally thought the £18 entrance a bit steep for one room but nooooo there was so much more. All the games were set to free play and as such you’d well ‘ad your money’s worth (as they say in Liverpool) by the time you left. TBH we are planning another visit once the schools have gone back. Less kids embarrassingly beating me at Mario Kart although the fact that it was more like actual driving than on the console at home meant I was able to win a few rounds which never normally happens. The top floor had a wall of PC games hoked up. Clearly this was for the serious players who seemed somewhat less boisterous than the rest of the place. My advice, take earplugs or, better, just join in with the screams and squeals be a kid again (or at least a moody teenager)

Onward to the Baltic Market inside another of the old brewery buildings. Grab a table scan the number with the app and place your order. All four at our table ate from a different street food stall. All meals delivered to the table as they were prepared. Naturally everyone was eating everyone else’s food. There’s a drink selection too. Saturday night it was rammed and loud and we were, at least, outside avoiding the worst of the pumping sound system.

Falafel. Humous. Fries.

The ‘party’ was dispersed across several tables including those who represented the vanguard at our next venue, Sugar and Dice (nope, not sponsored) hidden behind Liverpool’s Nordic Church and a haven of sweet treats and coffee (although they have upped their bar game since last I was there). cake, yes please, tea for me I’m diving tomorrow, and a round of Cockroach Poker, Fluxx and something suitable for the kids on the next table that I never did learn the name of. Board games havens such as this often form a focus of any visit to a new town. Usually the coffee and cake is excellent and the clientele are happy to chat and give you great hints about local (possibly hidden) places of interest. The premise is simple buy your refreshments pay a small deposit or rent a chunk of time at a table and you may try out any of the 100s of board games they have in stock. Many such places will sell games too. I can get very boring about board games but board games are never boring. If you find yourself in a given location see if they have a board game café. I bet you’ll make a new friend and learn a new game.

I wonder if we’ll find a games café on our big trip…(I just checked. the answer is a definite yes) I know there’s a pack of cards on the carry on…do we have room for another one… just a small one…

Folking Fantastic

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I’m sure I mentioned that I was  going to be at a festival. Cambridge Folk Festival to be precise. Arrived early having rebooked to avoid the train strike. (I fully support all trade union actions and respectfully remind you that excessive profits are unpaid wages.) We waltzed around the town for a day and took in the sights, though to be honest at £11 per adult per college you’re not going to visit them all!

Wristbands collected. Refillable drinks plastic glass procured. A brief wait for the merch tent to open so we could get a programme spent happily at the cider stall. The key to a good festival is the choice of bands to see. With 4 stages a clash is inevitable but rate your must see/like to see/will see if passing carefully and Bob’s your aunty. Mooch round the market looking at the festival clothes/hats/jewelry and, of course, the instrument stall… because this is a folk festival.

Wristband

Who did we see…? Findlay. Spiers and Boden. Dustbowl Revival (best find of the festival for me). The Young Uns. Suzanne Vega. Seasick Steve (which got a bit ‘blokey’ and dangerous feeling so we left). Admiral Fallow (not their best set something was off). Zoe Bestel. The People Versus. Cruel Folk. The Honest Poet. Dupree. June Road. The Mary Wallopers. Katherine Priddy.

My pick of the festival must see was Christone ‘Kingfish’ Ingham. I’d caught a tune or two on the radio the week before. He’s a Grammy Award winning blues guitar player. Yep. Blues at a folk festival, that’s Cambridge. His security detail were not best pleased when he disappeared off stage, still wired in through his radio pickup, and reappeared sometime later in the middle of the audience. Brilliant (and he knows it) check out his albums.

Kingfish

However the ‘remember for ever’ moment will go to the Billy Bragg set. Now Billy and I go way back. I actually gave him his 1st gig in Manchester back in 1983/4. (There is a photo to prove it). Naturally I wanted to catch his set but this clashed with both O’Hooley and Tidow (also acquaintances …  we caught the first few songs of their set) and the 2nd half of the Women’s European football final. He checked his phone just before the set to see that the German team had equalised 1-1. Part way through he spotted someone in the crowd checking the score… into extra time… Billy decided we should all sing Jerusalem to spur them on but just the 1st verse. 2-1 shouts the guy. One song… how long to go? 2 minutes… Billy decided to talk for a while but couldn’t hold off and launched into ‘Shirley‘ … around  verse 3 the cheer went up. He stopped playing and wept. So did just about every woman in the crowd. Strangers hugged each other, a strange sight in this post Covid world. We sang the 2nd verse of Jerusalem!

Billy Bragg

Much of the weekend was spent enjoying amazing music, cider and company. There was much anti Tory sentiment (as is the way with folk music) including a beautiful arrangement of ‘Vote the Bastards Out’ in 4 part harmony by the Spooky Men’s Chorale. Regardless of your political views (who am I kidding) I’d definitely advise you to check out next year’s festival.

Bring me my bow of burning gold….

We love a travel show

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To be fair I mean the kind with a host who goes gently and with an open mind into all manner of places and accommodation. I’m definitely not talking (Judith Chalmers…you have to be a Brit of a certain age but think leather skinned journalist sampling up market package tours). Inspired by a live performance by one Sandi Toksvig we spent a happy evening catching up on some of her exploits around the UK this evening. Together with her chums she shows us around splendid, and often isolated, places where you could stay with a group or as a pair (if you had a lot of money) and pretend to be a knight or lady of the manor. There’s history and weather and non of it stops one from having fun.

Joanna Lumley does a mean travelogue too. Though these tend to be lengthy and exotic as do Sue Perkins travels. Notice that all of these are women. Obviously being accompanied by a film crew and fixer make things go more smoothly (or less dangerously) but the commentary from a female presenter is on a different scale. Even the great Michael Palin could be a touch epic. Its the little things which endear these women to you. I mean when did you last see a blokey travel host make dinner for his chums?

In other news I have just passed my Ham exam and will soon be licenced for the airwaves. My voyages around the world may be virtual for now but we shall see.