Ffiftypluses

Back on the Train, Gang!

Published on January 16, 2023January 16, 2023 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

Everyone was up and ready for our transfer to the station. I have to admit it felt odd not to have Smiler and Karen looking after us and we were a little twitchy as to what form our transfer would take. Turns out it was a very nice local minibus taxi and they delivered us in time to see the Ghan pull into the station. Once there our bags were checked ready for delivery to our cabins for later. Choices for today’s Ghan related trips were a tour of Alice (been there done that), an animal encounter at the Desert Park (my wife’s choice) and Simpson’s Gap. I went for the Gap. Oh sure we may have gone to ANZAC hill again but this time there was the bonus view, the train. Only seeing it from up there can give any realistic idea of what a 1km train looks like.

The thin red and silver line across the centre of the image is the Ghan. Alice spreads only as far as you can see and is no allowed beyond the current city limits as this is now Arrente land. Once we passed Flynn’s memorial again we were off to Simpson’s gap.

Once again this place has been immortalised by Albert Namatjura. It was busier than many sites we’d visited but still fresh from the coach we were greeted by a Bearded Dragon (lizard) and some pink birds I’m informed were Major Mitchell’s cockatoos posing in a tree for their close up. As ever this being Australia the rivers run underground except in times of flood and we were able to crunch along the sandy river bed where the Blood Gums grew until we reached the water hole that marks the end of the tourist area and the start of First People’s land. You get some idea of the scale of the place from the little figures in this image. A rocky area near the gap itself kept us captivated for some time as we scoured the area for sight of the Black Rock Wallaby. They did not disappoint but you try photographing one!

Lunch was served at the Desert Park where we met up with our train mates. I’m not sure who had the better day. Getting close up and personal with the local wildlife and watching the staff fly birds of prey sounded pretty cool to me. For those who felt the need to shop there was a drop off in the town centre but we opted for a cool down and a shower on board before our evening’s entertainment. Alice Springs was not done with us yet.

The town was called Stuart (after the explorer) or originally Mbantwe. When the overland Telegraph Station was build out of town that became known as Alice’s Spring after Alice Todd wife of Sir Charles Todd. Eventually it became too confusing to have two names for what was essentially one place and Alice Springs it became (Aussies, we are told, are naturally lazy and that is easier to pronounce than Alice’s Spring). The town grew with the 1887 gold rush. The telegraph station is still there on the edge of town and that was our dinner destination for the evening. We arrived at dusk to be greeted with love music and, of course, champagne. It never gets boring.

We ate as the sun went down serenaded by a live band. The Milky Way was visible above us. Some of our travelling companions in ‘Platinum’ were a little too much for us (never discuss politics at dinner) but I found myself seated next to the guy who played triangle on a Thompson Twins single hit (if he was to be believed) and we talked 80s music for a while. Conversation across the table was getting heated. My wife and I went for a walk. We decided to opt out of the camel rides but did join our Red Centre companions at their ‘Gold’ table for a few laughs.

[At this point I should say that we opted for the Platinum package because we wanted a flat bed experience rather than bunks. Neither of us were comfortable with the level of privilege shown by some of our coach mates. It costs nothing to be nice only some people seem to forget that. We have family who work in the hospitality industry and make it a habit not to treat service staff rudely.]

Whilst some people chose to dance into the wee small hours we took the shuttle coach back to the Ghan for a quiet nightcap (brought to your room) and an early-ish night, it was still close to midnight. Once the last passengers were on board we started to move slowly through the desert towards Coober Pedy.

Alice’s Spring

Published on January 12, 2023 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

An early start to catch a sunrise over Uluru from the viewing platform near the resort was rather spoiled by cloud cover! Still a spectacular sight though, in truth, we overslept a little. Back for breakfast an onto the bus. Today’s viewing was the story of the accident that changed aviation worldwide. The Coffee Royal Affair. Less commentary as we were all tired and reflecting on the end of an eventful week. Some of our friends were leaving today to go on their travels and yet others would be rejoining the Ghan with us tomorrow. We were on the black top (proper roads) as we made our way back to Alice our final lunch stop being at Elrunda Roadhouse. Yes, there were emu. Yes it was everything you imaging a roadhouse to be. None of us wanted a beer and the barman and three locals that had appeared as we arrived faded into the background as quickly as they came.

We rolled into Alice Springs past a Toyota dealership. It sells more ‘utes’ than anywhere else on the planet. After the roads we have driven in the past few days I can see why. The town itself exists because of the telegraph station but more of that later. It is a hot day as usual and we decided to walk into town before it got too hot (spoilers, it was already too hot). There are a few attractions. Our hotel was next door to the Lasseter’s Casino (Pricilla again), in the town centre highlights are the Qantas hangar, the old prison and the Flying Doctor museum, the desert park is just outside town but more of that later. A farewell diner with our driver and guide and off to bed. One day free to roam Alice tomorrow.

Well, it would have been rude not to visit the Royal Flying Doctor Service since we had already been to Flynn’s memorial and now knew the story of the 20 dollar note (the old ones) and how it could save your life. Its hologram show and the opportunity to get on board a life size mock up of the plane made an enjoyable and informative visit … and we ran into some of the team whilst we were there.

Then we decided on the prison, its just across the road. It’s not entirely grim as it was rescued from destruction because of a wonderful mural painted by a former inmate. Sadly (?) some of the buildings had been destroyed before the community campaign managed to save the rest and it has now been converted to a museum of prominent women. That’s a whole new perspective on the influence of these hardy females. Some of the original blocks have been preserved and no way would I have wanted to be locked in there with no air con.

By now the sun was almost directly overhead so we abandoned the idea of a short walk to find a bakery recommended as a great place to eat and made our way back to the RFDS café for lunch. Staff from the hospital were there too. Refreshed, cooled and stocked up with water in our indispensable water flasks (the best thing in those kits we got) and wandered back to the hotel. Yeah, the pool in the shade was definitely the place to be. Quiet bar snack diner, complementary drinks of course and an early night ready for our return to the train.

National Treasures

Published on January 9, 2023 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

Following the dark skies experience and late finish we are up early to wind our way to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) for a wander up to what many consider the second best known of Australia’s big rocks but it’s not what it seems. En route we could see so many Desert Oaks and these amazing trees, which look like saplings to us, are 100s of years old. The First People use them for water, food and shade but every tree is treated with the respect it deserves given how they grow in this inhospitable landscape.

The area surrounding Kata Tjuta is flat and red as you may expect but on the way down the valley there are signs of surface water and the occasional blue or green speck in the conglomerate which forms this feature. Yes it’s true. This is, in fact, a huge lump of desert concrete and not one giant rock as you might imagine.

The fly net is not pretty but the joke in the Red Centre is one canyon, one rock, one railway and one billion flies. Truly at the time of year we were there it was an absolute necessity! The scarf may seem odd but its a cooling scarf. Effectively designed to be damp and allow the evaporation to cool your neck. Best buy of the trip for comfort. By now the ‘team’ from the bus had bonded and I felt quite comfortable wandering up the valley with some new friends whilst my travelling companion rested in the shade.

Lunch was served at the cultural centre. There is a wonderful instructional ‘dream time’ tunnel display at the centre which we visited before lunch but we were respectfully asked not to photograph the artifacts inside. The First People also own the gallery and shop and provide paintings and other items for purchase. Again this goes towards school and health provision. Throughout our bus tour Smiler kept disappearing with the leftover food and we found out that her was donating it to local First Nation people as many now struggle to eat. Now before anyone rushes to judgement Australians of European descent took children away from families their families for years with a view to ‘educating’ them in mission schools. Many never saw their birth families again. (Please look up stories like that of singer Archie Roach for more detail). In doing this we stripped many people of their language and culture and broke the link to the land and the old ways which allow First people to survive in the brutal heat. We have much to learn and ‘bush tucker’ is now being shipped to markets worldwide for its excellent nutrition. As Australia moves gradually northward year by year and given the changing climate I can see how facilitating the next generation’s return to their lands is massively important.

We were bussed to the base of Uluru with stories of the formation of the scars on the rock and and insight into the custom of interaction between different tribes. Surprisingly the first visit we mad was to a spring and water hole hidden within the curves of the rock. Smiler appraised up of the punishments used by those who break community laws. Some of these are still permitted/tolerated under the Australian system as they are effective in maintaining balance between European and First People’s cultures.

The rock art above one of the springs demonstrates more about the children being taken. Traditionally when a child was old enough to do so they would add their hand print to the family wall. This remained until they were elderly and they would then superimpose their adult hand over the top. As you can see many of these hands are child sized only.

After an emotional day on the rock we headed back to freshen up for the ‘Field of Light‘ that evening. More champagne overlooking these two spectacular features, a quick team photo and as darkness fell the ‘field’ was revealed. Originally the installation was only supposed to run for a couple of years but now it is set to remain until 2030. It is exactly as described, a field of thousands of lamps winding a pattern into the darkness. It has to be experienced rather than described. My shaky cam photos do not do it justice so please click the link if you want to see more. Tired and emotional we headed back to the resort for a late supper and off to bed.

New Years Eve

Published on December 31, 2022 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

It’s been a busy year. Lots of pre booked and in waiting post (lol) pandemic fun to be had now we have been allowed out. That said, gigs were missed due to covid and bad weather this year, too, but not the trip down under. The world looks a little different. Some people didn’t make it this far, yet others were born. Same as any year and not at all like anything I’ve experienced before. I trust that the future will be just as unpredictable as the past was when it, too, was the future. My best wishes to one and all. I’ll keep trolling on about my stuff here, and who knows, maybe you’ll stay with me. I wish anyone reading all the best for the future however long it lasts.

Big Rock

Published on December 29, 2022January 27, 2023 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

Mount Connor rolled into view after a good few hours on the road. Smiley called it out. ‘Look a big rock’ … It’s no Uluru. Actually quite a different shape, but it sent everyone scrambling for their phones and cameras. Even though I expected this ruse, the feeling of getting so close to ‘that’ big rock was overwhelming.

To backtrack a little we’d been on the road for several hours. Mostly on corrugated dirt highway, Smiler had provided commentary and we’d been on the lookout for camel, giant lizards and, had seen Brumbies running wild (gorgeous, golden horses). He put on an Aussie classic ‘The Castle‘ (and a true story) for us to watch and we settled back for a long haul. People were quiet and tired after a couple of days of extreme heat and long drop toilets. (If you know, you know). I am in awe of the energy Smiler and Karen bring to their work every day. They deserve a chill too.

We had our Afternoon tea at a station called Curtin Spring which lies outside the region supplied by the Great Artesian Basin aquifer and had not seen rain in over 9 years. They do have bore holes drilled on the property and are well enough supplied. We were introduced to station life by the wife of the current station owner in the tea room what they call the ‘bough house’ which has served as the only shelter for the family for 15 years when they first moved into the land. You can just see the grey spinifex grass roof on the left hand side of the image below (under the satellite dish). There were were no walls only the shade of a wire and grass roof. You have to be a certain kind of resilient to live out here. The wives made tea for travellers in part to get some company whilst the men were away dealing with the livestock and partly because food and water are hard to come by and hospitality highly prized.

Curtin Springs suffered like many small businesses during the pandemic with fewer tourists due to both internal and external travel restrictions. Who knows where the idea came from but they decided that they could make high grade artists paper and set about making it happen. We were treated to a paper making talk and demo in the old slaughterhouse which now houses the paper making and the containers which form the gallery exhibiting work by the station owners daughter. Naturally we were given samples and bought more of this high quality product. (No, they re not sponsoring me but you can buy paper through the link).

Finally back on the black top road Uluru loomed into sight. Its a hard to describe feeling. This really is one of the wonders of the world. Personally I’ll take Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) over Uluru (Ayres Rock) any day. Smiler took us for a brief circuit of Uluru before depositing us at the hotel. Sadly this was quite Americanised and as such jarred with the feel of the park. Yulara is a purpose built resort just outside the Uluru /Kata Tjuta National Park. As the sacred spaces have now been returned to the First People (the Anangu) and they have come to an arrangement in leasing the land back to the NT government and use the money to run their local school and house the community. Obviously its a massive draw and there are hundreds of people who want to experience this incredible place but the annoyance of a pool with piped pop tunes and a lot of people more intent on the hotel than the countryside was a disappointment. Oh, its lovely, clean, great food … oddly two double beds in the room … but massive and busy and would not have been my first choice but then all the hotels (there are about 6 of them) all seem much of a muchness. It served as a place to sleep and we were not there much.

The big rock does change with the light and we had the chance to see it from dawn to dark (although the clouds on day two rather spoiled the sunrise). The coaches were provided by a different company as we were whisked away to the ‘Sounds of Silence’ bush tucker inspired dinner overlooking both these spectacular geological sights. Sadly there was a digeridoo player there to greet us … the Anagu do not use these. Hey ho. Champagne and the sunset then on to dinner.

Once dinner was over all the lights were extinguished and a voice came out of the darkness. Our Star Talker had arrived to weave local stories with astronomy and astrology to show us around the night sky and for me my first glimpse of the milky way. They left the lights off for the remainder of the evening as we used our torches and a few shielded foot level lights to make our way down to where a telescope had been set up to allow us a clear view of Saturn and its rings. Full of champagne and excellent food we were ferried back to the hotel.

Of course tomorrow was our chance to explore further.

Going Bush

Published on December 19, 2022December 21, 2022 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

Kings Canyon Resort. We arrived at the building designated reception. Drove to our rooms… we’re directed to take a torch when we walked across to the fuel station/shop, which was next to the bar/dining, 15 minutes walk away. In case of scorpions and snakes, they said. Avoid the snakes. In particular, the Inland Taipan aka ‘Fear snake’ as there’s no known antidote for its venom. Diner is at 7pm. Casual as that. BTW if you wanna do the rim walk tomorrow, we leave at 5am. Now I had intended to do that but another 5am wake up was not happening.

Showered and betorched, we headed over for … Emu burger and whatever dessert came out of the freezer because this is the outback, and supply is an irregular thing. Turned out to be cheesecake, which was good as we’re the burgers. We were having an after dinner drink when shrieking alerted us to people standing on chairs across the room. SNAKE! Calmly evicted by staff as coffee was served. Never did find out what kind of snake but it was a rainbow something or other I think. Generally I don’t mind snakes. Enough excitement for one long day and torch on head off to bed. The coach was parked directly outside our unit… the engine did not stir me as they left at 5 for the walk.

Around 9.45,after a leisurely breakfast we met back at the bus for a short drive to the base of the canyon and the less strenuous wander down the base track. The gates to the rim walk had closed due to the temperature, now at 39°C. It’s not even 10 am. I looked at the “steps” to the top and thanked the sleep gods for not letting me wake up in time.

There was an option to take the afternoon off, swim in the resort pool, have a beer… or take a helicopter ride over the top. I’d missed the walk so… helo it is then!

Now, I’ve never been in a helicopter before, not even as a patient! (UK reference as most ordinary people will only get a ‘copter ride en route to hospital in an air ambulance). As we set off to the helipad, we hear there’s a bush fire heading towards the resort as a result of the previous evening’s thunder storms, and we may need to evacuate… but not to worry. Let’s go on a joy ride. Our pilot was an ambitious young woman with one eye on the fire and rescue service so naturally the opportunity to photograph a bush fire and file a report meant our flights were slightly delayed. I was seated in the front next to her and off we went. I would have preferred her not to continue taking photos with her phone whilst flying a zero winged aircraft which requires, I noticed, both hands and both feet to remain stable. Let me tell you the views were worth every penny.

Kings Canyon from the helicopter, you can just make out smoke from the bush fires in the distance.

Back to earth and another quick shower and change (still 40 degrees) off to the evening meal which was allegedly a buffalo curry, suffice to say we were offered a free drink as compensation. Still a wide selection of random frozen puddings and this time without added snake. We drifted off to bed enjoying the sunset as we walked back. Long day and another early start tomorrow as we headed for Yalara, a purpose built resort serving the Uluru/Kata Tjuta park.

Meanwhile back in the desert…

Published on December 12, 2022December 16, 2022 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

So many people do not realise that a desert can be cold as well as hot. At home right now it’s minus three degrees centigrade. It’s been like this, though not quite as cold, for about three days now. I’m about to tell you what life was like in the Red Centre of Australia in 39 – 40 degrees.

Alice Springs overnight before heading off on the Larapinta highway and tne Merenee Loop to Kings Canyon. I’m just gonna bung a load of photos in here. Suffice to say it’s no ordinary ‘minibus’ that carries us and Outback Spirit need to give Smiley Oz and wife Karen a bonus for the value added commentary and obvious joy they have in the NT. (Northern Territory) even if Karen is a Scouser (a person from Liverpool).

All I can do is recommend a visit to Alice. It is like nowhere you’ve ever been. A quick tour of Flynn’s memorial (the guy that invented the Flying Doctor Service), ANZAC Hill, (more of which later) and a whizz round downtown Alice and we were deposited at the hotel for the night. We were warned not to venture out after dark because of some recent incidents but, honestly it does not feel like a scary place. Next door was Lasseter’s Casino (made famous in Pricilla Queen of the Desert if not before).

Out early (every morning was early) onto the bus (with Smiler, our driver, supplying a commentary and soundtrack ( a link to Spotify) and Larapinta Drive out of Alice. This was to be a day of wonders. First stop Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye), where we picked up the stories of Albert Namatjira and his art. Onto Namatjira Drive, named for the man himself. We passed the ochre pits and learned about sunscreen and bush craft. On to Ormiston Gorge (Quarta Tooma) and the waterhole made famous by one of the ‘White Gum’ paintings that made Namatjira’s name.

I’m being careful to include First People names where I can as these lands are contested and the names are gradually being returned to them. I’ll not include images of every tourist spot please look them up if you’re interested. Out final stop on the ‘black top’ highway was a little known spot that is the scene of a meteor landing and where the crater is still visible. There is something about standing in the eroded base of a meteor crater that makes you feel really small, especially knowing that 1000s of feet have already been eroded from the hills surrounding you which form its walls.

Then we went … I was going to say off road but in reality onto a thing they call the Mereene Loop. This is a corrugated dirt road and we were at the start of the wet season. We are sitting in s 25 seater minibus. Bouncing along. Swerving to avoid puddles for the next 3 hours or more. Sounds exciting eh? Our ‘minibus’ was in fact a converted lorry. Seriously build for these conditions, 4×4, high road clearance, leather seats mini video screens, coolers for food and water. We pulled up at one point to hand over water to a guy whose car had overheated (its what country people do) and to check he had help on its way. You never leave a fellow traveller on these roads. Along the Loop we saw Brumbies, Desert Oak, Gums of various varieties, Grass trees, and still no Roos.

Destination Kings Canyon. (see earlier Pricilla reference) and the Kings Canyon Resort. Now ‘resort’ means a different sort of thing in Australia than what you might be expecting….

Back to the Real World

Published on December 6, 2022 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

If you were hoping for more tales of adventure I’m sorry to disappoint. Today is a work day for the PhD student in me and a difficult review meeting. Its been an interesting year… what with the ongoing pandemic and a big trip to Oz. I’ve been plugging away at the research stuff. It’s not glamorous. A lot of transferring notes and filling in forms. I’m at that difficult stage (like its not all difficult) where I actually have to put in some writing time. The forms are all but filled and need to go to a higher authority for approval. A chapter must be produced.

I admit I’m a great procrastinator. There’s always another place to look for inspiration. Another theory to check out….. I could go on but that’s just more procrastination.

My question is which chapter to begin first. The ever exciting ‘Literature Review’ or the even more scintillating ‘Methodology’.

I want to apologise now to my supervisors for not realising I could just get on with this before the ever popular ethics form was completed….. Doh.

Going on the Ghan

Published on November 29, 2022November 29, 2022 by Ffiftypluses1 Comment

You’ve no doubt heard of the Orient Express, maybe even the Trans Canadian or the Rocky Mountaineer, but this … is the GHAN! Our voyage, for this is in effect a land cruise, began at the freight terminal in Darwin. Not so glamourous? Well yes, actually. While there’s no waiting room as such and definitely no café the staff make up for it all with cold bottles of water and a sunny disposition to a fault. Platinum baby! Walk straight through, let us run you to your carriage by golf buggy. Now it that seems extreme let me tell you that this train is almost a kilometre long and its cracking 37 degrees centigrade.

We hop on and are shown to the carriage where the champagne flutes are soon filled by staff (yes, and re filled if you want, this is all inclusive). There are water bottles and a brochure of off train excursions to choose read for our first stop but no before lunch. The train menu reflects produce from across Australia from barramundi to kangaroo (Yes, we ate the national symbol … emu too). The wine list is filled with the best the continent can offer … and a little Bolly Dahling!

We leave bang on time with lunch served in the Platinum dining room as we head towards the station at Katherine. I’ll tell you more about different trips as we go along. As to this one We chose the gorge cruise at Nitmiluk (previously known as the Katherine George). The gorges (there are 20 or so flood to different levels depending on the time of year and we arrived at the driest point. Nitmiluk cruises are run by the local first people, the Jawoyn. White (European) Australians have begun a reparation for a lot of bad stuff. Everywhere we went the tour operators thanked local elders past present and future for use of the land. A first it seems like a gimmick but this is serious work and willingly undertaken. Our captain and tour guide was Jawoyn and wove local stories into a commentary about crocodiles and film crews, rock art and floods. How privileged to be given this insight, what an amazing place and how much remains off limits to us (as it should be). between 40 and 65,000 years of history here.

Back to the train for a cocktail before diner (or a coffee). Dining is relaxed and you can choose to share with fellow passengers, there are a lot of couples, or dine a deux. We avoided those who treated the staff like servants, we have family in the service industry and we’re not rude people. As I said in my piece on how to be a good guest being nice costs nothing. From the ‘amuse bouche’ to the sweet we tried everything and I mean everything one of each dish for each course. Hey, we were on holiday! The cabin was turned down when we arrived back after eating , chocolate on the pillow, nightcap (preordered) waiting on the side table. As the sun set over the increasingly red earth we headed off to Alice Springs through the darkness.

Discovering Darwin

Published on November 22, 2022 by FfiftyplusesLeave a comment

To be honest we had only a couple of days here and day one was major travel tiredz and a thunderstorm but we made it to the famous Mindl Beach Sunday market. Now we are spoiled and come from a great little market town so it has to be pretty spectacular to impress and, whilst it’s lovely, Mindl was a tad disappointing.

OK the storm light was spectacular but most of the market seemed to be food stalls we couldn’t eat from because of our respective allergies. We ended up with sushi rolls which were lobster and cheaper that tuna is at home! There were a few clothing stalls and some interesting alternative medicine things not to mention a significant number of the Larakita people trying to make their grog money by posing for photographs and begging. I spoke to some of the women (they approached me) who told me they are not happy when they are in the city drinking but its different when they are ‘out bush’ hunting. We owe these people more than an apology for what we (Europeans) have done here. Australia is not eight states, one federation but over 200 tribal territories that have existed over 65,000 years as far as we can tell. I personally learned a lot about these cultures whilst touring this great continent…. trust me you are gonna wish you knew what they know.

Darwin was the last place in Australia to be invaded. The Japanese Imperial Airforce rained bombs on the city in February 1942. If you want to hear the full story take yourself off on a harbour cruise at sunset. It’s glorious.

The ‘Gaze and Graze’ platter for two was more than enough food for us and we waddled off the boat after an entertaining couple of hours. Our host and commentator was from Croydon!

One thing I would say of the city or, more accurately, the CBD feels a little off somehow, dangerous? Can’t put my finger on it but I’d no sense of wanting to hang around there. The suburbs, in particular Parap, I enjoyed. Parap has a thriving artistic community (although we did meet Larakia people up and drinking, they were happy) with some pleasant coffee shops and interesting places to eat. It’s tropical. Being outside even for a short while was sweaty and made me long for air con! We had a small yard in the unit we stayed in and no way could I sit outside for more than 10 minutes without needing a drink and a shower. Water is so very important. It becomes an obsession.

But that’s enough for now… next stop our chauffeur driven ride to the Ghan.