Apologies for the delay on this as my hand is in a splint … don’t ask .. so this will take me a while to type!

Rolling overnight from Coober Pedy we woke up to an emu vs kangaroo race alongside the tracks and to a countryside that looked a little more like the southern end of the UK. Wheat fields and greenery. Staff made themselves available for selfies and goodbyes. We arrived around early afternoon and were taken by private car to our air b’n’b in the historic district just off Adelaide’s Chinatown and a five minute walk from the famous food market. Guess what our first stop was?

It was close to closing time but we managed to find a couple of talkative former Brits who were happy to direct us to the best bread stall and some great local produce. We were at the market daily. There are a range of excellent cafes and loads of high quality food alongside a bookstall and weirdly a camera shop. One thing I did find odd was that apart from the market there was nothing we might call an ‘Off Licence’. Supermarkets don’t sell alcohol. We wandered into a pub that seemed to indicate it sold drinks for home consumption. Yep, there they were locked up away from the bar. A bottle shop. Sad to say we had come across a number of people with varying mental health and alcohol issues on our journey and many of these were First Nation individuals. I can see the logic in making alcohol difficult to get to but when we think about Australia in the UK the pub features heavily so it was an eye opener to see the strict controls. It’s been sad to hear about the current issues in Alice Springs since we came home too

The little row house we were staying in had one window in the front and one in the back with non at all the kitchen which was served by a skylight. It was cosy but we both felt like we were still moving for a while there. The weather forecast was very British but we’d brought our rain gear so not problem. Day one and we located the museum quarter and the superb collection in the South Australian Museum. This includes an opalised fossil dinosaur and I love a fossil of any kind. Just across the yard is the Art Gallery of South Australia where we spent a good few hours enjoying the modern art and the excellent selection of Namatjura paintings.

It took us a while the next day to work out how to get hold of a bus pass having been refused entry to a buss for Handorf as they don’t accept cash. (HINT: get it at the railway station and talk to a human being to make sure you’re getting the best deal). Armed with the appropriate piece of plastic we got onto a local bus and wound our way to the former ‘German Town’ through places with familiar names and an unfamiliar location. The tours to Barossa are wildly expensive but the Handorf winery is beautiful and a normal commuter bus is a more interesting experience than a tour. honestly we saved about 350 dollars!

If you’ve never tasted good wine with good chocolate I’d suggest that you try this wine pairing when you are in town. The historic high street of Handorf had a range of cafes and niche/boutique shops. Yes, its a bit touristy but very pretty. The original Melbourne Cup was on display in the Wolf Blass bar/tasting centre and it was Melbourne cup day. With the time differences I can honestly say Adelaide was very quiet when we got back! It still blow my mind how many different time zones cover Australia.

Now I had my birthday while we were in Adelaide. Asked what I’d like to do I opted for the zoo. Out with the trusty bus pass, but no, there is a free city circular which dropped us not far from the Adelaide Oval and a short walk from the zoo. I had thought to book to walk over the roof of the oval but we decided it was a touch pricey since I’m the only one with any interest in cricket! We ran into some cricketers in the Rundle Mall …. some team, pale blue kit … may have been Australia!

The zoo was a lovely day out. We got to feed the giraffes and I could have cuddled them (you’re asked specifically not to try). You have no notion of how big a giraffe is until its eating from your hand. I love the fact that there were school kids at the zoo and that there’s a huge emphasis on conservation. People found it so funny that we through the ibis were exotic when the locals called them ‘bin chicken’. I’d not seen one so close as when it was trying to steal my lunch! They really do look like Egyptian mummies.

Finally a day to wander around and do a touch of shopping. Obviously we found an antique book store, I found an R.M. Williams belt and we found the Mall’s Balls. Then there was chocolate at Beehive Corner.

Leaving for the airport we sailed past the Journey Beyond passenger terminal. The flight to Perth for our connection to the UK proved lively with a passenger collapsing in economy and staff trying hard to maintain composure when we had seen the defibrillator coming out. We gave them some of our chocolate figuring they needed it more than we. That passenger walked off the plane into the care of waiting paramedics!

Whilst we’d grown used to business class treatment it was still wonderful to be spoiled rotten all the way home. Pajamas, food at all hours (thankfully, as I fell asleep before dinner finished being on Adelaide time), fully flat beds and a smooth flight back to Heathrow. We arrived on a strike day (underground staff) making our journey across London a quieter than expected. I hated that we had no choice but to break the strike and I’m sorry folks.

Would I recommend the whole Australian experience? Well, we’re planning the next one already. I reckon the train experience was well worth every penny. I know the flights were an indulgence but folks if this is a once in a lifetime for you, treat yourself. I’ve done that journey in economy and business is worth it if only to get some sleep. Someone said to me this very afternoon that they’d love to do the Ghan but. There are no buts. It’s well worth the experience. Make it the focus of your big birthday (like I did), get vouchers, start a travel account that you can’t access easily, ask for your Christmas and birthday money. Travel is always worth the trouble. Our next trip is somewhat shorter but already planned and Australia… we will see you asap.

Footnote: just had dinner with Karen & Smiley… in the UK. They are still wonderful. Go on their tours!